Just wondering what do you guys use if you buy them. I was looking into snes adapter boards for the m27c160 chips. I will def. have to do research as I have never designed a board before but how hard could it be to draw some holes w/lines between them.
Plus looking at an Atari composite mod and seeing the guy charging $25 for a small 1" board w/7 wires, 2 resistors, a transistor, and 3 jacks seems crazy.
I could probably do a snes adapter board easy just have to look up the rewiring for that chip but the Atari wiring man I would have no clue where to start on that thing but I will def. learn!
You basically can't get single PCBs cheaply. At all. The best you can possibly do is make it yourself, either with a PCB mill or some kind of masking and etching. (Or, if you don't need a two-sided card edge connector ... perfboard. Yes, I've deadbugged SMT parts on perfboard.)
If you're willing to get 10 copies of a 1- or 2- layer PCB with maximum dimensions {5,10}cm × {5,10}cm × {1.0 through 1.6mm}, and are willing to wait a bit, seeedstudio is pretty cheap ... at least to the US.
OSHPark up to a point, but once you hit the $15-$20 size, SeeedStudio/IteadStudio are probably gonna be cheaper, with the trade-off being the increased turnaround time.
Turn around time isn't too important to me. I also don't mind buying 300 or so to get a good deal. I have to make some phone calls, to get more information.
If you're willing to buy 300, you'll get a good deal from almost anyone. Seeed will get you 300 5cmx10cm boards for $276 (a nice price); even ExpressPCB is only $993 (not too shabby)
Ok looking into this some more. Seed appears to be the best option. The snes case does not have much room. It appears the eprom pins would have to be trimmed at the very least. Do you see any problems going with a pcb size of .06mm. It looks like the snes pcb is about 1.5 mm thick.
I think I have about 1mm of extra room in the case to work with.
Any free program I can use to design this? It seems most want a Gerber file, so I will have to look into that some more.
You might also look at ITEAD. They're comparable to Seeed.
PCB thickness is 1.2mm, not 1.5mm. (Contact pitch is 2.5mm, not 2.54mm).
What dimension are you referring to when you say ".06mm" ?
My SNES cases have roughly 12mm of clearance, which really should be abundantly plenty for DIP components... even with sockets. Where did you see less?
There's a gazillion different free PCB programs, from FOSS (kicad) to freeware (eaglecad) to various online things (PCBweb, easyeda, upverter). Which one's "best" is mostly a matter of opinion...
.06mm for the thickness for the adapter board. When I say 1mm extra space, I mean currently if you have a snes board in case there is about 1 mm extra between the rom and the case as snes board lays. If I were to put an adapter board in between them, there is not a whole lot of room to add pins as well, they kinda would need to be pretty flush.
On the snes board the pins of the rom can stick through the other side of the pcb, there is not enough room from where the board lays for the eprom pins w/out trimming or bending them over.
If you're going to mate a board to an existing PCB, you may as well choose 1mm instead...
Also, I don't know if you can get anything short of polyethylene film in 60µm thickness, let alone PCBs.
Oh, also, look through Markfrizb's posts. He's done graftable daughtercards like this before, although only for the SNES.
lidnariq wrote:
Also, I don't know if you can get anything short of polyethylene film in 60µm thickness, let alone PCBs.
Was 600 µm meant? Because that's half the thickness of an NES game PCB.
EDIT: Below posts say yes.
I'm just seeing the options it was showing me.
Attachment:
pcb thickness.jpg [ 207.19 KiB | Viewed 4247 times ]
.6 not .06 lol that's the confusion.
edit: I just realized Most snes boards dont fill the entire case up like a troy aikmen 2 mask rom board. I would not need those carts anymore. As long as I offset the chips to go outside the board area, space will not be an issue as I thought.
Amazing what comes to you when you are laying in bed lol.
I do like Markfrizb's adapter board but he told me he is not selling them anymore.
Give this a try:
http://pcbshopper.com/Compares all the cheaper sites. I used Maker Studio for a demo run, and it was alright. Not good enough for a small production run, but it essentially gave me enough info to review my design which was all I needed. Cool colors too :p
For long-term use, I like Advanced Circuits (4pcb.com). Expensive for smaller boards ($33 each + shipping!) but the quality is amazing.
SnoopKatt wrote:
Give this a try:
http://pcbshopper.com/Compares all the cheaper sites.
Wow that is pretty cool, it has two china sites listed under $200 for 300 boards.
pcbway $194 shipped 11 days
itead studio $197 shipped 19 days
Wonder how quality is.
Ok so I tried messing w/this eagle program a bit and I honestly don't have the time to invest in learning this program right now. How much would you charge to do it for me and send me the files needed to order these boards.
Wanted adapter board for snes to m27c160 eprom. I can provide desired board size and placement. Pm me if interested.
I juts felt the need to vent about this eagle program. Apparently in order to draw a trace between connections you need to draw an "electrical connection". NOT available in the free light version. What a waste of time, completely useless.
Seriously what in the hell can you make w/the light version? That's like giving someone a car and telling them to take it for a test drive and placing the car on a small platform with a 20' gap on all sides that prevents you from getting to any roads.
When it tells you that it can't make an electrical connection, that's because the freeware version only lets you route connections in a 10cm × 8cm area bounded explicitly with X and Y coordinates between 0 and 10 or 8 cm (respectively). You should move the components into the area, and probably use the autorouter... at least until you get sick of the autorouter's incompetence.
lidnariq wrote:
When it tells you that it can't make an electrical connection, that's because the freeware version only lets you route connections in a 10cm × 8cm area bounded explicitly with X and Y coordinates between 0 and 10 or 8 cm (respectively). You should move the components into the area, and probably use the autorouter... at least until you get sick of the autorouter's incompetence.
It doesn't tell me I can't. The icon is not there at all. Since there are no library files for what I need I wanted to use header files. I had 7 pin header and 6 pin headers. I was just going to stack them in a line and connect the leads but it will not let me. I can draw a wire in schematic but that's useless as it does not follow through into the pcb layout.
By any chance, are you in the schematic editor instead of the board editor?
lidnariq wrote:
By any chance, are you in the schematic editor instead of the board editor?
I have been in both. I had made this last night in board editor and ran holes and wires and via's but after I got done I realized I did it wrong LOL. I don't think it was correct anyhow as I placed the holes but those would just be holes, no copper circles around the holes like I need for the traces to connect to.
That is why I decided to try and use these header pins as they appear to have what I need. In the schematic I can draw a wire and that is all. Once I click the board only the components transfer not any of the wire connections I make, which I have only done a few as to not waste my time.
Once in board view I can layout the header pins but if I try and draw a wire between connections it errors me and says that must be done in the schematic view. It's very irritating.
My board size is under 10cm x 8cm. I was watching an eagle cad tutorial and it shows him making his connections by "defining an electrical connection" instead of the wire command. Well his icon he uses is not available in the light version so it's impossible to make any traces connect.
Ok, so the flow is:
Draw the schematic. In the schematic you specify that pin X connects to pin Y using the "net" (and optionally the "bus") tool
Convert the schematic to a board. Draw the outline. Place the components. Use the "route" tool or the autorouter to use the connectivity information you specified in the schematic.
It doesn't let me or I don't know how to define the pins in schematic.
http://schematicpal.com/Type in "header" and select the M07 and that is the ones I used on the left side. the 1x07 option.
Attachment:
hhhhhh.jpg [ 197.14 KiB | Viewed 2985 times ]
I found the problem. I was placing the net wire in the wrong spot, plus I needed to decrease grid size to even be allowed to place connections in correct spots.
I sure do hope this is correct. I just ran connections all in schematic. I went into net classes and made width .5mm, drill 1mm, and clearance .5mm I then ran auto router and this is end result?
I have that hole on bottom that is suppose to be 1/4" but it doesn't look like a 1/4" hole in the green pic. I had only shown layers, pads, holes, drills, and vias.
I did mess up the spacing on the right side, going to have to fix that. Tried a few things but rerouting the wires was not working. Maybe try grouping the traces and holes and see what happens?
edit. fixed it. It was easy, just added increased board size slightly and move the right side components and wires over slightly. Grouping them worked. Luckily I still had some room I could play with on the board size.
Ok ordered a small run of 10 and they seem to work good. A bit tight but I knew that was going to happen.
I plan on ordering more but I am a bit confused because when I do a 500 order from pcb shopper it tells me $352, however from what I am reading my board should fall under the smaller one of $175.
The board is 2.5"x2.6" which would be 6.35cm x 6.604cm which is just under 42cm. Now unless I am reading this wrong that looks like 25cm squared which would be 625cm? Am I missing something here? Is that not cm squared? It just confuses me as pcb shopper thinks I need the 50 cm squared option.
icemanxp300 wrote:
Now unless I am reading this wrong that looks like 25cm squared which would be 625cm? Am I missing something here?
Yes, you're misreading it. It's 25 (cm²), not (25cm)².
lidnariq wrote:
icemanxp300 wrote:
Now unless I am reading this wrong that looks like 25cm squared which would be 625cm? Am I missing something here?
Yes, you're misreading it. It's 25 (cm²), not (25cm)².
Deep down that's what I thought they meant, but I was hoping not
They don't have a space in between the 25 and cm².
So I guess 50cm² is what I need.
On a side not how the hell did you get the superscript 2 to type?
icemanxp300 wrote:
On a side note how the hell did you get the superscript 2 to type?
wikipedia:Compose keyI don't know what the
right way is to do the equivalent thing in Windows or OS X, though. In Windows you could memorize some magic numbers and enter it as an
wikipedia:Alt code.
qwertymodo wrote:
OSHPark up to a point, but once you hit the $15-$20 size, SeeedStudio/IteadStudio are probably gonna be cheaper, with the trade-off being the increased turnaround time.
I have used Seeed Studio
pcb manufacturer for most of my PCB projects, I got qualitity 10 of 10x10cm 2-layer boards for $9.9, shipping is fast and the quality is good, I highly recommend.
WellPCB is a professional PCB factory which is part of Uniwell Circuits Company. You can also get quick PCB prototype services. This is convenient especially to hobbyists and researchers who need relatively small volumes. Their online platform can be accessed at wellpcb.com. From their website online PCB calculator, manufacturing 10pieces of 100 × 60mm 2 − layer PCB will cost you around $27USD.