Heya guys.
I got me a shiny new PowerPak. It works fine on my PAL NES, but for obvious reasons I want to enjoy the majority of the games in full 60hz. To solve this, I also got a Sharp Twin Famicom (AN-500B) and a regular Famicom (HVC-CPU-GPM-02 board from 1989). The 72-60 pin converter I got from StoneAgeGamer.
Currently, I only have one genuine PAL cartridge (Duck Hunt+SMB), but it seems to run fine with the pin connector on the Sharp FC and the cart label faced the other way. However, the PowerPak only gives me a solid white screen, no matter how many times I press reset, which way I turn the cart, or how much I fine tune connecting position. Does anybody know about this issue?
I don't know squad about FC connector details, but If it helps, I'm including reference pictures of the connector insides here:
Front
Back
Of course, I'd have already tested out the PowerPak on the regular Famicom, if I didn't (possibly) kill it with reverse polarity (yeah I'm stupid). Since I can't see or smell the severity of the damage, can anybody enlighten me with the most common damage types that reverse polarity can cause to an FC?
And for that matter, if only something on the RF modulator were broken, would it still be possible to salvage the rest of the mainboard? Since I'd AV-mod the console anyway, maybe I could just throw out the RF board and give it a 5V+ feed instead.
I got me a shiny new PowerPak. It works fine on my PAL NES, but for obvious reasons I want to enjoy the majority of the games in full 60hz. To solve this, I also got a Sharp Twin Famicom (AN-500B) and a regular Famicom (HVC-CPU-GPM-02 board from 1989). The 72-60 pin converter I got from StoneAgeGamer.
Currently, I only have one genuine PAL cartridge (Duck Hunt+SMB), but it seems to run fine with the pin connector on the Sharp FC and the cart label faced the other way. However, the PowerPak only gives me a solid white screen, no matter how many times I press reset, which way I turn the cart, or how much I fine tune connecting position. Does anybody know about this issue?
I don't know squad about FC connector details, but If it helps, I'm including reference pictures of the connector insides here:
Front
Back
Of course, I'd have already tested out the PowerPak on the regular Famicom, if I didn't (possibly) kill it with reverse polarity (yeah I'm stupid). Since I can't see or smell the severity of the damage, can anybody enlighten me with the most common damage types that reverse polarity can cause to an FC?
And for that matter, if only something on the RF modulator were broken, would it still be possible to salvage the rest of the mainboard? Since I'd AV-mod the console anyway, maybe I could just throw out the RF board and give it a 5V+ feed instead.