Excellent!

As far as the dry erase thing for the pokemon box, no, I didn't use any alcohol. It's pretty simple but I'll break it down into steps:

(Optional/Recommended) - test the dry erase marker on a small portion of the back of the box to make sure it can be easily removed with a cloth.
(1) - Using a dry erase marker (I used EXPO brand, black), color directly over the marker and around the general area.
(2) - Use a sock or DRY cloth (no liquid involved here whatsoever) to wipe off the dry erase marker. It should smear a bit and look like you're making it worse at first.
(3) - Repeat until it's all gone. It took me three or four goes before it was completely gone.



Here's a picture of the box that I cleaned up.  It originally had blue sharpie on the front (A giant "$2" marked from the people selling it) covering the "P" in Pokemon.  I'm not sure if this technique can be used for all other boxes, but it certainly wouldn't work for rough paper such as the insides of the boxes--just the glossy outside.  I'm also not sure how much time plays a role: if the marker was applied 20 years ago you're more than likely out of luck

^ I figured that's how you did it, but I wanted to make 100% sure so that there can't be any misunderstanding. I would hate for someone to try with alcohol or something and end up ruining a box. I'll make that edit shortly.

Today's current edits in the order they were added:

1. Clarified on reproductions/translated reproductions/homebrews.
2. Updated on removing marker from boxes (Alder's contribution).
3. Cleaned up some grammar/sentence structure to improve clarity.

Today's edits in order of implementation:

1. Added a link to ZoOmer's guide on boiling the 72-pin connector.
2. Added a section for system discoloration with a link to retr0brite.
3. Added MinusWorld's thread on VGA.

Good info to add:

http://www.nintendoage.com/forum/...

Removing smoke smell from items:
1- Put items in a plastic bag / container with an open box of baking soda or dryer sheets
2- Leave items in a ventilated area like a garage for a few days.

I haven't thoroughly looked through the FAQ, but I think it'd be cool to have something like this:

Tips for making a functional all-in-one Game Room Setup

• Recommended A/V and RF switchers
• Recommended shelves to store NES games, etc
• etc,etc

That's a good idea NESMASTER, I currently have 16 systems connected, and I've had no luck finding a switcher that can accomodate that many. I found some plans over on Ben Heck's forums for building your own switcher with as many inputs as you want.

I've also been building my own shelves from laminated boards with adjustable depth stops to accomodate different size games. It's not a fancy soultion but works well, basically 2x1 pieces of wood cut to *slightly* longer than the inner shelf dimension, so they wedge into place but can be repositioned easily.

Thanks, bennybtl. I updated the FAQ. That was a good idea.

NESMASTER, we don't have anything like that yet. That sounds like it could be a good idea. I myself am still in need of shelves and would like some solid direction on what I should do.

http://stores.ebay.com/videogamem...

I use this page whenever I need to know which screwdrivers and batteries to use for the different systems.
Maybe we can contact them and ask if we can copy their table/info.

Great idea; looking into it!

Cleaned some things up today.

Hey, I think an appropriate topic to add to the "FAQ" would be something on insuring your collection.

It comes up pretty often, and the answers are always the same: Pretty much can't do it because you can't get a fair appraisal from a "credible" source, or "YEAH, I have mine insured," but no solid evidence can be provided that they will get any kind of coverage should problems arise.

That's a really good idea. Do you have any sources to pull information from? Is yours (or anyone else's) collection insured?

Here is one thread about it I saw a while back: http://www.nintendoage.com/forum/...

Unfortunately, it doesn't appear to have enough concrete information in it to the point of being able to come up with some sort of guide. At least not from what I saw with the few minutes I had to skim. I'll go back and edit this post when I get the time to read it in detail.

Yeah, it's just an example to give some ideas. It all depends on an individual's insurance and its policies.

That's the problem I see with almost all threads is the lack of concrete evidence.

My insurance tells me that everything I have is considered contents and covered as such. Also they say to take pictures and video of everything to prove ownership. They don't, however, tell me anything about value. I'm sure it would be more blanket coverage, rather than individual items.

Hm. I dunno if I can actually make a FAQ on that without some direction. As a college student, everything insurance-related is still under my parents, so I am completely ignorant of these things. Which sucks... 

UPDATE: 
I added some information on embedded images in your post. Now there's other information besides just what Benihana posted.

Yeah, know what you mean. I just figured with so many people posting about it and nothing solid coming, maybe that could be in the FAQ? lol

I wasn't expecting a solid answer in there, because I don't think there is one. No one really has put forth any personal experience, but if they do that could be helpful.

I was thinking about another topic:

Q: Should I sell my games as a lot or part them out?

A: The decision should be based upon what you think you can handle. Selling in a lot will be easier and less risk involved with mixing up shipping, or becoming overwhelmed by shipoing to too many different people. However, it will also net you less money overall. On the other hand, selling one at a time will allow you to price items individually at fair values, and not force someone who can only afford one game to miss out on it because they can't afford the whole lot.

If you sell individually you can always do discounts for multiple game purchases, or offer other incentives such as discount shipping.

It is much easier to total up individually priced games rather than subtract one or two from a lot if you end up selling them separately.

Selling individually you may end up being left with all the common games that no one wanted to pay shipping on just that one title.

Or how about this one:

Q: Generic question about legal advice:

A: This is not a legal site, you should take no legal advice from anyone here. Consult a lawyer.

I was disappointed to see the cleaning section was missing one of, if not the most important items in my cleaning arsenal, Dot-3 brake fluid. This is the end all of permanent marker cleaner, and makes alcohol look like garbage in comparison. A side by side test will prove the difference. This also works on labels, boxes and manuals, but like other methods, has the chance of damage when gloss is missing, or it soaks into an edge. A q-tip is the easiest precise application method, and the strength of the ink will determine the amount of swipes necessary to remove the ink.

This is a pro tip from me to the community I have learned cleaning literally thousands of carts. Save the alcohol for the contact pins.

Some people don't know how to quote multiple posts. Could we add this to the FAQ for reference?

I an still having a problem with Nindo the cornerstone. I have the cornerstone blocked on my PC and my new smartphone. I only have a problem when I am on a member's profile page or a Threads Posted in/Threads Started page. I know I can use the mobile site but I prefer the desktop view site. Any advice?

Here is something that may be helpful to our members concerning "Official Forum Time".

http://nintendoage.com/forum/mess...

Hey, guys. Thanks for the comments. I'll get to updating later this evening!

I'll add all three of your additions. As for the cornerstone, Laserman, it only shows up when you view someone's profile? That's odd; I really don't know why it would do that. I guess we could relay it to Dain.

Today's updates:

Added K. Thrower's submission.
Added Laserman's submission.

... more to come!