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Fried my NES; Tech Help Needed

Jan 23, 2008 at 2:03:13 PM
VBForever (3)
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(Gary Brawn) < Eggplant Wizard >
Posts: 379 - Joined: 07/17/2007
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I was just wondering whether or not there are any fuses or replaceable parts inside the NTSC Toaster as I was trying one out last night and it stopped working all of a sudden. I started to smell burning and it looks like I've fried something inside. I was using the official power supply (9V AC 1.3A) which I thought powered all NES's correctly, however a sticker on the bottom of the toaser states 9V AC 850mA.

Any thoughts on this?


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My Collection Pics

Current Counts: -

  • NES:298 (238/238 Licensed UK PAL A, 11/11 Unlicensed UK, 49 US/AUS)
  • VB:33/33+2NFRs
  • N64/64DD:127 (109/244 CIB UK, 8 NTSC, 10/10 64DD)
  • SMS:197/277

Jan 23, 2008 at 4:14:29 PM
Zzap (47)
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(James ) < King Solomon >
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The higher ampage (1300mA instead of 850mA) is fine, you just need a higher number than the device needs to suck. The voltage is the most important, and will blow things up if you get it wrong.

Was there anything else inside that may have caused a short circuit like undried cleaning fluid, a stray screw or cut wires? Had you recently opened this up? Any other info you can provide either about where it appears to have burnt/melted or what you were doing at the time?

I'm not 100% sure if there is a fuse in the power supply section of the toaster itself. If you're looking to fix it using PAL parts, it may be possible to switch out the power board in the NTSC one with a PAL one...I'm not sure on this - anyone else?

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Jan 23, 2008 at 5:08:23 PM
VBForever (3)
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(Gary Brawn) < Eggplant Wizard >
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Well the burnt smell was coming from the power adaptor on the rear of the system. I've not had the system open, I'd just received it in the post and was trying to get a game working with it (it was a blinker), so I'm not too sure if there was stray wires etc in it. I'll open it up though, the case is in very good condition so I can always use that if the insides are no good. I'll look into switching the power supply for a PAL one, got loads of them hanging around and I can't see them being vastly different, it is the same console at the end of the day.
Thanks for the reply

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My Collection Pics

Current Counts: -

  • NES:298 (238/238 Licensed UK PAL A, 11/11 Unlicensed UK, 49 US/AUS)
  • VB:33/33+2NFRs
  • N64/64DD:127 (109/244 CIB UK, 8 NTSC, 10/10 64DD)
  • SMS:197/277

Jan 23, 2008 at 5:34:14 PM
Zzap (47)
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(James ) < King Solomon >
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No worries, good luck

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Jan 23, 2008 at 8:52:30 PM
dangevin (219)
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(Dan Langevin) < Wiz's Mom >
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There's a built-in power regulator for the toaster that reduces anything up to I think 17.6 volts, down to the 9v it needs.

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Jan 23, 2008 at 9:53:39 PM
BootGod (16)
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(Mark Lacey) < Meka Chicken >
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Yeah the NES can deal with a pretty good range of voltages, it will even work with a DC adapter of either polarity! Out of curiosity, what was the game you were trying to get to work? Was it an unlicensed game? I've never actually heard of this happening, but supposedly you can damage the NES if you try booting a cart that uses the CIC stun method (which is most of them), and you power on / off too rapidly. Your supposed to wait like 5 - 10 seconds between each try.

Jan 24, 2008 at 4:59:24 AM
VBForever (3)
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(Gary Brawn) < Eggplant Wizard >
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I was using the triple game cart SMB/DH/WCTM. I've just unsoldered a power pack off a PAL board and just removing the NTSC power pack now, ready for the PAL one to go on. I'll post up the results soon.

-------------------------

My Collection Pics

Current Counts: -

  • NES:298 (238/238 Licensed UK PAL A, 11/11 Unlicensed UK, 49 US/AUS)
  • VB:33/33+2NFRs
  • N64/64DD:127 (109/244 CIB UK, 8 NTSC, 10/10 64DD)
  • SMS:197/277

Jan 25, 2008 at 1:39:25 PM
pedro! (24)
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(Pedro Games) < Lolo Lord >
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How come you didn't just use all the insides from the PAL system if you were going to cannibalize it anyway?

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Jan 25, 2008 at 9:03:00 PM
BootGod (16)
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(Mark Lacey) < Meka Chicken >
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I couldn't say for certain, but I'm not so sure using a PAL module is going to work due to the different AC / video system used in Europe. I would suggest you ask someone over at nesdev before trying that out!

Jan 30, 2008 at 9:24:11 PM
Michael the Great (2)
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(Michael the Great) < Little Mac >
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ok, I'm not sure if I understand this topic. VBForever, where are you? Is your power 110 or 220? If it's 220, did you just plug the us ac adaptor into the wall expecting it to work? That US ac adaptor is made to turn 110 into the correct voltage. If you plug it into the wall without a stepdown transformer, you probably blew the nes. If you're on 220, you'll need an adaptor that expects 220 in and provides the correct voltage out. I would assume that a PAL ac adaptor would do that. So again, the simplest way to get a US nes to work in a 220 country would be to use a pal nes power adaptor.


Edited: 02/02/2008 at 03:13 PM by Michael the Great