I had some general questions about using my ossc and endless searching on the internet hasn't really gotten me anywhere and I'm REALLY hoping someone in here can help me out!

Looking at the OSSC (and I apologize if this an "uh duh" statement" there clearly isn't your standard A/V plug in with red, white, yellow but rather green, blue, red. What cable is it that I need to connect to the OSSC and why? I ask why because it's important for me to not just know what to do, but to understand why I have to do it that way.

That being said I have a SCART cable for my sega genesis to connect to a PVM. The one end of the SCART cable is just your standard DIN to plug into the Sega Genesis which attaches to another SCART cable. This cable has stand red and white at the end as well as Green, Blue, Red, and Black. In this case it would seem fairly obvious to just plug into the Sega Genesis and then plug in the Green, Red, Blue but what about the Black cable, or for that matter what are any of these cables for? Correct me if I'm wrong but for regular A/V Cables the yellow was for picture with red and white being for left and right speakers?

Now assuming I'm correct that Red and White are for audio there doesn't seem to be a place to plug them in? Granted the OSSC is really only working with bumping up the resolution for the image, but would it be possible for the audio to no longer be properly synched? 

Finally, the SCART Cable that plugs directly into the back of the Sega Genisis via a standard DIN I can plug the other end of it directly into the OSSC. I have to assume there's a difference? What is it and what's the best option?

ANY or all help in regards to these inquiries would be GREATLY appreciated!

Thanks

OK, there's a lot to unravel here since it sounds like you're in seriously uncharted waters.

First, OSSC does not support CVBS Composite, AKA "the yellow wire" or Y/C component AKA "S-Video." For NTSC users like me you might have to struggle a bit to get a supported signal into the unit. Luckily most analog retro consoles either already output the proper video signals with the correct cable or they will after a bit of light modding. The results are totally worth it!

On its own OSSC only supports RGBS, RGsB, RGBHV, and YPbPr. Typically, that translates to RGB Sync over SCART, Sync on Green with PS2/3 SCART/component cables, VGA over 15-pin D-sub, and HD component over RCA Cinch. If you want to add CVBS and S-Video inputs you'll want something like a RetroTink 2X with an active HDMI to VGA adapter, but then you might be happy just running the HDMI output from that without bothering with the OSSC.

As for audio, the original DVI version of the OSSC only had an analog audio pass-through which would break out the SCART audio through a headphone jack. You were expected to connect any other audio source directly to your stereo or TV. Of course, many displays will not have analog audio for digital video inputs but it was common when DVI was still found on HDTVs.

Thankfully, the current OSSC with HDMI instead of DVI now supports analog audio and digitizes it together with the HDMI video signal. They even added (or repurposed?) a 3.5mm TRRS "headphone" jack for stereo input. Because it's open source, my DVI version was even upgraded with the audio board from Borti. This upgrade board digitizes analog audio from the SCART. The TRRS jack on mine is still an output so I use this SCART plug thing to connect discrete analog audio with typical RCA Cinch connectors:



The S-Video and composite ports won’t do anything since this just passes through to the SCART connectors where the OSSC already doesn’t do anything with composite or S-Video. The OSSC will get audio from those SCART connections or the TRRS input regardless of what video input you have selected. As an audio input this will work for you too but, obviously, we can’t connect a SCART device at the same time so you'll probably be better off with a cable similar to this:


You'll want some RCA Cinch gender changers on hand, of course.

I'll list a bunch of systems and how you can connect them with minimal modding:
Atari 2600, 5200, 7800, and XEGS/8Bit: RGB mod with UAV and a custom cable
NES: Upgrade with NESRGB and use SNES HD Retrovision (HDRV) cables
Master System: Use Genesis 2 HDRV cables with the Master System adapter or a SCART cable
Genesis 1: Use Gen2 HDRV cables with the Gen1 adapter or a good SCART cable
TurboGrafx-16: Use dbGrafxBooster/Engine Block with Gen2 HDRV cables
Turbo-CD or Turbo Duo: Use Voultar's RGB amp/replacement DIN and a SCART cable.
Neo Geo AES: Use Gen2 HDRV w/adapter
SNES SNS-001: Use SNES HDRV cables or good SCART cables
3DO: Must custom install a mod board for the cable of your choice
Neo Geo CD: Use Gen2 HDRV w/adapter
Saturn: Use SCART or Gen2 HDRV w/adapter
PlayStation: Use SCART or Gen2 HDRV w/adapter
N64 (NS1 serial): Install Voultar's amp and use SNES HDRV/SCART
SNES SNS-101: install Voultar's SNESRGB bypass board and use SNES HDRV/SCART
N64 (NS2 serial): Install Borti's or eTim's RGB board and use SNES HDRV/SCART
Dreamcast: Use SCART or VGA box with cables
PlayStation 2: Use original or HDRV component cables for RGsB/YPbPr (menu option)
XBOX: Use Advanced AV Pack with generic HD component cables
GameCube (NTSC DOL-001): Use Nintendo component cables or recent clones
GameCube (NTSC DOL-101): Use GCDual with SNES HDRV... or just go HDMI directly  
XBOX 360 (analog-only versions): Use component cables... or upgrade to a later model with DVI directly  
PlayStation 3: Use original or HDRV component cables for RGsB/YPbPr (menu option)... or just go HDMI directly  
Nintendo Wii: Use Wii component cables
Nintendo Wii U: Use Wii component cables... or just go HDMI directly  

So, I have to ask: what were your intentions when you bought it? If you just want a decent quality, low-latency, HDMI converter that doesn't destroy 240p effects from retro consoles then you might be better off with a RetroTink 2X. This is especially true if you just want to stream but don't like the price or other aspects of the Framemeister XRGB Mini.

Because OSSC is all about preserving the original quality without adding any latency. It can't buffer frames so it can not make the digitized video conform to proper HDMI specs. As a result, the signal and is incompatible with most HDMI capture hardware and streaming devices. Heck, virtually no console outputs exactly 60hz for standard HD timings so many TVs (like mine) only work in Line 2X mode... making it even more like the RetroTink 2X.

https://imgur.com/a/d2NouI5...

Re-reading the OP I see you also wanted to know what the green, red, and blue connections were and wanted to know about the SCART cables you have.

OK, first, the Genesis SCART cable is carrying RGBS video. This means you have a separate connection inside for Red luminance, Green luminance, Blue luminance, and the Composite Sync pulse (either dedicated C-Sync or Sync on Composite Video). This is why the breakout cable for your PVM has four cables. You'd just connect the Genesis SCART cable directly to the OSSC's SCART input and set it to Input 1 RGBS.

Input 2 with the colored jacks is for RGsB (Sync on Green) or YPbPr (HD-capable Component). Very few game systems support RGsB. It's pretty much just XBOX and PlayStation 2/3, which are better with YPbPr component over the same cables, so Input 2 is primarily for use with YPbPr component.

YPbPr component is just a more efficient way to encode RGB such that you actually get a lot more bandwidth despite fewer connections. Basically, instead of transmitting the luminance (brightness AKA "Y") for each color, it transmits their shared brightness on the green wire, the brightness difference for Blue on the blue wire, and the brightness difference for Red on the red wire. So, where does it get Green and from? Well, math. Since G was the shared brightness, you subtract R and B from it to get G. No need to transmit the shared luminance detail 3x and you free up a whole other channel of bandwidth by getting rid of Green. Furthermore, Sync literally happens between frames, so it does not reduce bandwidth available for that frame when you toss it on the Y-luminance channel as YPbPr Component does. The bandwidth savings are so great that they enable HD resolutions on fewer cables, which is why pretty much all HDTVs with analog inputs have these red/green/blue HD component jacks.

...but you also wanted to know how to use them. Well, PlayStation 2, XBOX, GameCube, XBOX360, PlayStation 3, Wii, and Wii U all have official YPbPr component cables available that just plug right in. You'll want to check you console's video settings thoughsince they typically default SD instead of ED/HD. Though some early SNES consoles had YPbPr component available inside with a simple mod, it practically doesn't exist in retro consoles older than those listed above. Still, I use YPbPr component with my older consoles more than anything else.   How? HD Retrovision component cables!

HDRV SNES and Gen2 cables convert the stock RGBS output of their respective consoles to YPbPr. They also make adapters to use those same two cables with many more systems. Because consumer RGBS-compatible displays practically don't exist in North America and virtually every HDTV and EDTV with analog inputs does have component along with a ton of late-model SDTVs, you're a lot more likely to find a set that's directly compatible with them here in the States. Heck, compatible displays are being thrown out left and right. If you can't find one at a thrift store when you need one you'll probably pass a few on the side of the road! HDRV only markets their cables for systems with stock RGBS unless you get it modded by their preferred modders (Voultar's N64RGB or SNESRGB. dbElectronics' dbGrafx Booster, etc), but you can use them with a lot more if you mod with them in mind. For instance, consider a mod that gives you a Genesis 2-style 9-pin Mini-DIN connector instead of one that requires a custom cable/connection. Instead of buying 12 different cables the vast majorly of my consoles connect through my two HDRV cables using their adapters and compatible RGB mods.

Thanks for the reply! A lot to look over and digest!

I hope you wouldn't mind if in the next day or so I pm you with some questions looking for clarification? I REALLY appreciate the in-depth and thorough response you gave and just want to make sure I get it all understood!

Fire away.