This is about as good as it gets on clarity.

I would like if you can explain how did this change and where can I find the exact link to buy the components. And what I will need to buy to modify the cartridge please.

Thanks in advance,

regards,

julhao244.

Oh damn, I'd love to play this on a repro.

Any chances of this actually happening?
 

I heard RetroCircuits will have them available sometime in the near future. I'm in line to buy one! This game really is spectacular! Can hardly
Wait!

Byuu was making fun on this on Twitter just the other day.

Why?

Where did you hear this?
 

Why?

https://twitter.com/byuu_san/stat...

 

$104 is way too much for a repro.

Can someone make a list of the involved components, I'd like to start sketching a schematic for it.
Thanks

From what I can see:
AM29F016 (2MB Flash holding the game data)
M29W640 (8MB 3V Flash holding the graphics data)
74HC32, 74HC00 to decode the upper and lower 1MB of the game data? Or to add a missing adress line. Not sure on that one yet.
The R4513 is just the Epson RTC IC which was moved because of the adapter board I assume.

A little OT, but can anyone tell me if this game works on SD2SNES?

No it does not. Ikari didn't add SPC-7110 support yet. It was planned but he's really busy.

Can someone let me know what's the device next to the m29w640 and ams1117.
It seems to be a tsop-8 device.
Anyone know what it is?
Ive figured out the rest of the stuff and currently working on a schematic.
Thanks

I think it's just a GTL2002 for additional 3.3V level shifting.
Good luck!

Does anybody here ever used a GTL2000 for level shifting? Maybe for SA1 or SDD1???
I'm trying to figure out how to level shift a 3.3v rom to the snes maskrom.
Does the GTL S and D ports need to match? or do they need to be shifted?
Ie: If i connect eeprom A0 to GTL S1, does the GTL D1 port needs to be connected to maskrom A0? or to a different address
Im looking at various guys SA1 adapters and Tengai repro and cannot confirm 100% how the GTL2000 is connected.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

Don't use that part for level shifting. Each pin requires an external pull-up resistor on the 3.3V side to properly translate from 5V, otherwise you'll get open-bus scenarios which can cause a game to hang. Check the datasheet for it, and you'll see a diagram showing the need for the external resistors.

I recommend the 74245 (or the 7416245, for 16 available pins). It works perfectly for level translation, and doesn't require any external pull-ups.
 

Did anyone else take a crack at this yet? Where's qwertymodo when you need him?  

There's a Polish (?) seller on ebay offering them as well; pic of his work:


Looks... better. I suppose this is about as good as it gets, without a super thin custom PCB of some kind or flat flex cable to route everything.

I got mine from RetroCircuits.  Couldn't be happier!!!

theres nothing on the back side. 

Whoa. That's super clean!

I was wondering how they did theirs...looks like they made a custom PCB to adapt both the decoders and the new eeprom chips.

Any chance you could post some closeups of everything? I'm curious as to what eeprom chips they're using and whether or not they level shifted 3.3V to 5V if they used 3.3V EEPROM/Flash chips.

I hope they sell this daughterboard separately eventually. I make my own repros so I have no interest in buying a premade repro (especially not for $105, sorry @RetroCircuits), but obviously they put work into making this board, so I am very interested in buying a copy of it if they were willing to sell it...

 

What are those ICs controlling the 29GL064 on the right? Only looks like they control the level shift from 5V <-> 3.3V to me.

 

Feel free to use the pictures on my side for whatever you like

https://jensma.de/pirates/index.p...

Have a look at the 'additional pictures' link for a high res picture (about 25MB)

If you need more photos or anything else, just hit me up