http://nintendoage.com/forum/ -Sqooner http://nintendoage.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=8&threadid=85553 2017-01-26T02:51:09 -05.00 Nightowljrm 90  
http://m.ebay.com/itm/222363338222 need it to finish a part of ny collection but seems over priced, and sus ]]> http://nintendoage.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=8&threadid=85553 2016-12-02T13:07:50 -05.00 Nightowljrm 90
Check out this link, it's actually about shipping carded action figures, but the same method is applicable to boxed games.

http://www.actionfigurefury.com/how-to-ship-action-figures-carded/

My adjustment would be wrapping actual game in bubble wrap first. (bubbles facing out, because these can transfer dirt/grime and cause marks on the box, don't wrap too tightly either)
Seal bubble wrap with scotch tape, the kind that's easily removed. This will prevent the buyer crushing the box just trying to unwrap it.

Also using paper is pretty cheap IMO, bubble wrap would be preferable shipping boxed games. Use their method but with bubble wrap, create 'walls' of bubble wrap around the boxed game to prevent any impact. Do not pack too tightly thou. If you still have room at the top of the box, you can add some packing peanuts on top of the bubble wrap to get a nice seal. (also saves a bit less bubble wrap) Never use newspaper or crap like that, even if the game is protected from it, the buyer will get ink all over them.


--my 2cents on cleaning

IMO another must have in the tool box is a soft 'horse hair' brush, like the kind you'd get in PC cleaning kit. (preferably ESD safe) For basic surface dust on PCB's you can easily brush it off using this. A paintbrush or even a shaving cream brush will do, but it's preferable to have something with long bristles. Just make sure they are soft bristles. Apply light force, don't try and do the whole board in one go, work around the board components.



As far as rubbing alcohol and q-tips, I find this ineffective for heavily oxidized games that have probably never been cleaned. Remove PCB from case, lay it on a clean cloth/rag.  Use a small blob of brasso and a clean towel or micro fibre cloth (something that is a little rough) and work over the contacts. Redo this using a clean part of the cloth and fresh brasso until there is no black coming off. Do not let the brasso dry off, quickly polish off with a clean part of the towel as you go. Once your satisfied, clean as usual with rubbing alcohol and q-tips, polish it up with a clean cloth. Your contacts will look shiny and new  

I think this is a must for cleaning the connector on the mainboard of old NES toasters, the amount of black junk that comes off those is incredible sometimes. I think this is best unless you are going to de-grease and wash the whole board like game-tech.us method. Isopropyl and q-tips doesn't really cut it for really oxidized pins... Also a bottle of brasso could last you a lifetime if you're only doing this every so often. If you're cleaning dirty games quite often it will at least save you going through as much isopropyl and q-tips  



It's magic stuff, I'm kinda surprised it's not already on the list, but I know some people are against using it. I'd probably only recommend it for dirty old games and consoles that have never seen cleaning. If your personal collection is already well maintained iso alcohol and q-tips will do just fine for general cleaning.

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(hope it's okay posting all this) ]]> http://nintendoage.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=8&threadid=85553 2016-09-30T01:46:48 -05.00 Nightowljrm 90 http://nintendoage.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=8&threadid=85553 2016-05-04T11:14:40 -05.00 Nightowljrm 90
while trying to clean my snes i opened it up and removed the shield from the 62-pin but i found out that i had the solder type
when i try to put the shield back on the pins it wont go all the way down
if you guys need pictures and can provide them
PLEASE HELP!!!! ]]> http://nintendoage.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=8&threadid=85553 2016-05-04T08:17:24 -05.00 Nightowljrm 90
I tried taking of the shield for the 62-pin on my snes but when i took it off i soon realized that the snes that i had was the solder type
i cant seem to put the shield on the pins, it reaches a certain point and wont go down completely can someone please help!!
If you guys need pictures i can provide them ]]> http://nintendoage.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=8&threadid=85553 2016-04-08T15:47:54 -05.00 Nightowljrm 90 Originally posted by: SsPpAaMm

How about these entries?:

How to properly and safely ship a loose cart.
How to properly and safely ship a cardboard game box with or without game.

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We all have heard horror stories about games coming in the mail in the most horrible fashions. I second this I'd love to see how to ship games safely

  ]]> http://nintendoage.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=8&threadid=85553 2015-08-12T14:58:06 -05.00 Nightowljrm 90 I use something called the "magic eraser". You can buy it at Walmart and grocery stores and ive even seen them at the dollar store. It's a small sponge(ish) type material that works literally like magic for taking marker off of the labels without doing any damage to the labels. I only just discovered this recently and was shocked as to how good it works! Just a suggestion if course but just wanted to share! I definitely suggest trying to out, they are cheap and last quite a while. All I did was put a corner of one into water, wrung it out a little, then gently just went back and forth on the area. Half a minute and it was gone, with no trace. It also works on the cart itself as well as the back label. Marker, pen, sticker residue, it does it all give it a try, hope it helps! ]]> http://nintendoage.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=8&threadid=85553 2015-04-22T22:30:55 -05.00 Nightowljrm 90 http://nintendoage.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=8&threadid=85553 2015-04-09T15:33:30 -05.00 Nightowljrm 90 http://nintendoage.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=8&threadid=85553 2015-03-05T09:06:33 -05.00 Nightowljrm 90 Label cleaning and sticker removal - Bestine. Nothing better, screw goo gone and it's oily, label ruining mess.  It's also very kind to the inks in cart labels.  See here:

Bestine vs Iospropyl on cart label

Marker removal - Prismacolor and/or AD blender markers. Using the same chemicals that put the marker down in the first place is the 100% best solution.
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