Can anyone help me out?
I want this game on eeproms and on a cart.
I heard Mario 2 (US) is a good donor cart for it but I don't know.
Can anyone provide me a how-to get it from rom to cartridge?
I can solder but I need info on:
- What eeproms I must use
- What donorcart I can use
- How to get the Eeproms on the board so I can play it. (what rewiring needs to be done and such (prefer with photo's)
I can provide the rom I'm gonna use. (i believe it's a mapper 142)
Off the top of my head, what I have heard is: If you want to make a reproduction cart of SMB2j, use Loopy's MMC3 hack, not a pirate version.
Ok did a search on Google for it and found it (first or second hit)
Now all I need are the instructions on howto make the cart (rewiring, what eeproms to use, etc etc)
I prefer a guide with photo's and such (step by step)
http://nesdev.com/NES%20EPROM%20Conversions.txt
I guess it'd be the mapper #4 directions on there (TKROM/TSROM). No photos though.
I don't know what the ROM sizes are for that hack. Check here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EPROM
Generally you can use a larger ROM, and duplicate the code on the chip as needed.
ok thanks.
this should do it.
Now gonna search for the eeproms.
I really want this!
What about the rest of the pins?
Sorry to sound like a retard but I'm really nw to this.
I have to get an EEprom socket and get that on the mobo, right?
please.....step by step
If you want it to fit back in the cartridge case, don't use sockets. Otherwise, you'd have to cut holes in the case or just not use one.
I'm not sure what steps there are to say that aren't covered in that doc. Except when it says solder X to X, use some wire.
ok thanx.
Now I know enough.
Gonna do this soon!
Yeah, I did this using loopy's patch to MMC3.
Works great!
So how is loopy's patch different play-wise from the pirate? I've got a pirate of SMB2j that allows for a stage select depending on what direction you press when you hit start.
-Rob
Quote:
As far as I know, it's exactly the same as the original, except for missing FDS sound in the endgame music.
And no load screens, I take it...
-Rob
rbudrick wrote:
So how is loopy's patch different play-wise from the pirate? I've got a pirate of SMB2j that allows for a stage select depending on what direction you press when you hit start.
-Rob
well what about the fact that it's an MMC3 version?
a mapper 4.
a version that can be put on eeproms and on casette's easier then the kaiser pirate
Dudes, I just heard Eprom programmers are dissapearing here in holland.
They said I should use 29xxx type flashroms.
But will the pinouts be the same?
If not I might have to face I will never make a nescart with Mario (J) on it.
downloader wrote:
Dudes, I just heard Eprom programmers are dissapearing here in holland.
They said I should use 29xxx type flashroms.
But will the pinouts be the same?
If not I might have to face I will never make a nescart with Mario (J) on it.
The pinout is different, but not by much. There's the write line, and an address line or 2 has moved around.
Don't worry though, EPROMs aren't going away anytime soon. It's already 30-year-old tech. I imagine noone hardly buys new windowed ones (they're damn expensive), but I'm sure one-time-programmable (OTP) ones will be around for a long time. Any good universal programmer will support them.
I don't know about suppliers in Holland, but all these chips are made overseas anyways. heheh.
Buy used EPROMs, they're dirt cheap, no one wants them.
You can find them in old computer boards in junk piles.
I bought mine surplus from a guy in china.
EPROMs are certainly cheaper, but I can't ever seem to find a small UV eraser for a decent price on like Ebay that isn't shipped from Asia and wants 220v AC. I heard it's not very hard to build one, but when it comes to UV light, I don't think that's something I want to muck around with.
I once looked into alternate sources for UV, like the sun, but they say it can take upwards to a week or more for that to do it, if even then. And fluorescent light can take ages longer. So it looks like I'm stuck with eeproms as well. Finding a place that doesn't stick you on shipping is the key. I just browse Ebay till something interesting pops up.
UV is nothing to be scared of, if you glance at it for a few seconds its not going to do any more harm than what the sun does.
Just get a cookie tin and drill a hole in it (for power).
Some light can leak out, but you can always tape up the edges with electrical tape to fix that.
Works great.
drk421 wrote:
UV is nothing to be scared of, if you glance at it for a few seconds its not going to do any more harm than what the sun does.
Just get a cookie tin and drill a hole in it (for power).
Some light can leak out, but you can always tape up the edges with electrical tape to fix that.
Works great.
Umm, the sort of ultraviolet required to erase EPROMs can severely damage your eyes and skin (severe sunburn, instant cataracts) - not exactly the sort of stuff you want to mess around with.
http://nesdev.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?p=14226
Hmm, depending on the intensity, I doubt a 4 watt bulb would do much harm.
http://205.158.110.70/ubbcgi/ultimatebb ... 0&t=000490
Out of curiosity, is the ozone produced by such a device harmful at all? Would you want to vent one like solder fumes?
uhm dudes.... isn't it true that old P1 (pentium 1) computers use such roms?
cause if so:
- why not remove the first 16 bytes of a rom (it's header)
- save the output as a .BIN files and flash the BIOSrom with a tool like AWDflash and get that in a nescart?
In theory that should work.
I can get P1 machines for free.
I'm not sure if those old motherboards use the more modern style Flash memory. You might have to use like a 28F style, if I'm thinking correctly. It also might just depend on the motherboard in general as to which you'd need.
The only possible problems I can think of off the top of my head in regards to using the program there to do it is like a CRC check it might do to make sure you don't mess up your bios.
FyberOptic wrote:
Out of curiosity, is the ozone produced by such a device harmful at all? Would you want to vent one like solder fumes?
Um, UV light produces ozone...? Perhaps you're confusing that w/ electrostatic precipitation (one of
these things)?
What chemicals are present in solder fumes?
Yes, UV light (especially UVC) is energetic enough to break oxygen apart and cause it to recombine into ozone (though in rather small quantities).
I heard about it when looking up stuff about eprom erasers before and the safety of the UV light. Apparently the combination of it and oxygen can produce it. I dunno the details.
But according to
various newsgroup postings, maybe there's not anything significant produced. And I've seen other people mention it even depends on the bulb used, so who knows.
Quietust wrote:
Yes, UV light (especially UVC) is energetic enough to break oxygen apart and cause it to recombine into ozone (though in rather small quantities).
Arrrgh! Yet another failure to think thoroughly enough before posting!
*regains sanity* I really have to learn that negligible != 0; (I also need to be more careful about when I judge something to be negligible.) The problem was that I had that Ionic Breeze thing stuck really deep in my head, and I know that in such a device (specifically, the Ionic Breeze GP Professional Series model), the electrostatic precipitation creates far more ozone than the UV bulb. I've never done serious electronics hacking, so maybe I should stay out of this discussion.
I've heard of people using PC mainboard to Flash ROMs. You need to swap the chips while the system is running though (and enable BIOS cache or shadowing in the BIOS menu, so it copies to RAM when it boots). And obviously if you don't have a second chip, it would be a one-time shot, heheh.
85cocoa wrote:
What chemicals are present in solder fumes?
Specifically it's not the solder, but the fumes from the burning flux. Usually solder has rosin flux in it (made from pine tree sap). I also use water-soluable flux, which has a seemingly noxious chemical smell even when it's not burning.
Memblers wrote:
I've heard of people using PC mainboard to Flash ROMs. You need to swap the chips while the system is running though (and enable BIOS cache or shadowing in the BIOS menu, so it copies to RAM when it boots). And obviously if you don't have a second chip, it would be a one-time shot, heheh.
That's no problem if it's a one-time shot.
if I can just flash em I should do fine.
I can get P1 systems all the time, so I might wanna check this out
loopy wrote:
As far as I know, it's exactly the same as the original, except for missing FDS sound in the endgame music.
There are 2 other significant differences I ran across:
1. All of the spring-boards are red, even the super-strong ones - the latter are supposed to be
green.
2. All of the piranha plants are green and don't come out of the pipes when you're next to them. Somewhere around world 4, they're supposed to turn
red and ignore your position when coming out (unless you're standing directly on top of the pipe, I think).
downloader wrote:
uhm dudes.... isn't it true that old P1 (pentium 1) computers use such roms?
Oh boy. Well, I've have the chance to brick a computer (specifically the one im on right now amongst others
), but this isn't too difficult.
First, get the target computer, rip the holo. sticker off the top of the BIOS (or the firmware revision if not somthing spiffy).
Check that number that it has.
common for penium 1/mmx boards is the x010 series chips, providing 128KB (1Mbit) of EEPROM. Somtimes an x020 is used, and that'd obviously provide double.
If the BIOS has a window, you're SOL (27x512 and 27x256 generally are windowed and only found on 386/486 board anyways).
Prep a floppy for flashing.
Win9x boot disk (you had one to make sure the mobo worked in the first place, right?)
uniflash software -- CHECK SUPPORTED HARDWARE/CHIPS SECTION PLEASE ---
Also consult your mobo manual to check if a write-protect dip is enabled or a congruent arrangement (like a 5v/12v toggle) is present. I've seen both (and both on the same board)
You'd in this case take your code and mirror across the entire chip (dos command copy /b rom.bin+rom.bin+rom.bin+rom.bin flash.bin) <--Assuming 64KB (256Kbit) code size on a 256KB (1Mbit) chip.
Also, if you do this, salvage your flash chips from
other devices...It's absolutely stupid to brick a Pentium computer for the sole purpose of utilizing it's EEPROM.
copy uniflash files and "flash.bin" to the boot floppy. Boot it.
Uniflash is pretty straighforward, and has saved my ass several times, so I'm not really going to go into detail.
</turtorial></novel>
85cocoa wrote:
Off the top of my head, what I have heard is: If you want to make a reproduction cart of SMB2j, use Loopy's MMC3 hack, not a pirate version.
i cant seem to find this anywhere. anybody got a link to where i can download it? thanks
Sorry, posting links to copyrighted material would be contributory infringement and put this board in jeopardy. I just searched and had no trouble locating it.
Loopy's version is based on one specific pirate cart. On Pocket Heaven, it is customary to post the .ips patch from that pirate version to Loopy's version.
Another hint: The
GoodCode for a port of a game to MMC3 is [hM04].
Sorry, I didn't mean to indirectly encourage piracy.
EDIT: Undid previous edit; failed to read tepples' post thoroughly enough. Oops.
Hey, I'm wondering if someone here might be able to help with a small project I'm working on.
I am looking to make an NES reproduction cart of Super Mario Bros. 2J using loopy's TSROM MMC3 hack, but I want to take it one step beyond that by having access to worlds A-D without having to beat the game eight times first and also does not require a battery.
I came across a thread on NA where that this can be accomplished by altering address line CC20 to value 08.
I tried that, but it didn't work.
I tried alternatively looking for another way to do this and found a GameGenie code that does the same thing evidently:
PANGTGAA
The problem is that although this GameGenie code does work, it doesn't give you any stars but forcably changes the starting location of world 1-1 to World A-1. If this were changed to always be active, it would mean a repro of SMB2J that is ONLY worlds A-D.
So I need to know what the address lines of the stars are so that data can be altered for the repro. so worlds A-D are accessible at the start if you hold A and press Start. and if not, you go to world 1-1 as normal.
Thanks in advance.
NOP out the branch at $C485 to always allow access to worlds A-D. That's at 0x4495 in the .NES file (change 90 0A to EA EA).
[thinking with a Game Genie mindset again]
A 1-byte change to 90 00 would work as well, right?
Thanks Loopy, that worked! (hold A then press Start)
but it doenst reflect any stars on the titlescreen. Are the number of stars stored elsewhere? Even though it's meaningless, I'd like the repro to have the full 8 stars on the title upon bootup if possible.
What address is that stored at and what value to change it to?
tepples wrote:
[thinking with a Game Genie mindset again]
A 1-byte change to 90 00 would work as well, right?
Yes, that works too.
SatoshiMatrix wrote:
Thanks Loopy, that worked! (hold A then press Start)
but it doenst reflect any stars on the titlescreen. Are the number of stars stored elsewhere? Even though it's meaningless, I'd like the repro to have the full 8 stars on the title upon bootup if possible.
What address is that stored at and what value to change it to?
Again, in the .NES file:
0x10: 00 -> 08
0xfac6: 04 -> 00
Thank you so much! This works! Tested it on the Powerpak and N8 and both give the all clear. Now I'm going to use a TSROM donor.
I'm curious about one other thing. What do the last two digits of various boards mean? Like
TSROM-03
TSROM-06
TSROM-08
Are those board revisions? I assume so. Does it make any difference which one I use when making repros?
Yes, board revs. I think any of them will work for you.