If I can find a Chinese vendor for NOS Ricoh RP2C02G-0 chips, would there be any trouble with using one in an NES/FC for PPU?
No problem if it's a legit part. More than likely, it's going to be a re-marked part. Then there's no telling what you're actually getting. If there's a picture, I might be able to tell.
A while back on ebay I bought a RP2A03E, I could tell it was fake by the picture, but I tried it anyways to see what it actually was. Turns out it's a PAL version CPU, probably a clone.
If you do find legit CPUs and PPU, I could use some.
A while back on ebay I bought a RP2A03E, I could tell it was fake by the picture, but I tried it anyways to see what it actually was. Turns out it's a PAL version CPU, probably a clone.
If you do find legit CPUs and PPU, I could use some.
Memblers wrote:
A while back on ebay I bought a RP2A03E, I could tell it was fake by the picture, but I tried it anyways to see what it actually was. Turns out it's a PAL version CPU, probably a clone.
Somebody talked about a fake RP2A03E on IRC a couple of days ago as well. He bought it from Ebay. I don't think it was verified but there was some speculation that it may have been a Dendy-like CPU (clock divider 15).
Just thought I'd mention that.
That's interesting. Since I dropped it into an NTSC NES, I wasn't sure what effects to expect. But it was kinda funny, I remember trying TMNT3 and the gameplay would slow way down when a couple enemies were on the screen. And the intro to Tecmo Super Bowl, the graphics were completely messed up. And the sound pitch was higher.
Are these fake?
I'm guessing fake - those chips have two pin-1 indicators (an edge dimple and a corner dot, compared to a real RP2C02G having only the former), and the label uses a different font (0 narrower than C, date code wider than usual).
Compare to real chips here (where the date code consistently fits beneath the "2C02G").
Compare to real chips here (where the date code consistently fits beneath the "2C02G").
I think they're fake too, in the second pic you can tell they've been painted. Look at the 2 round indentations, those are use to eject the plastic from the mold. Those are normally smooth, or at least not the same texture as the rest of the part.
People in the C-64 world are experiencing the same thing with re-painted broken SIDs or even fake SIDs!
I remember on GBATemp, we had to compare each other's results with specific sellers... who were encouraged to come there because no one wanted to deal with some fly-by-night random nobody with no sales history. You pretty much have to get this kind of stuff directly from the manufacturer, but good luck with that on ~30yo technology. 