I have no idea. They may have split the game into multiple stages.

 

I'd like to share my recent results with the 150-in-1. Recently purchased the retroUSB AVS so I'm actually playing a lot more.

First issue has already been confirmed. Kirby save is lost after loading certain games. You can test by saving in Kirby, then load Super Mario Bros 3. Load Kirby again - save is gone! Nice feature of the AVS is that you can backup/restore your .sav file with the Scoreboard app

After reset, some games have the wrong titles listed in the menu. I first noticed this where Ninja Gaiden 2 was supposed to be (some sports game instead). Completely power cycling the console ON/OFF restored the menu.

Cannot get past Mission 3 in Double Dragon. Sometimes the console will completely freeze. Other times, I get bumped back to an earlier part of the mission.

Also confirmed, some graphical, audio and timing glitches in Ghostbusters 2 and Turtles 4.

I'm not sure if some of these issues are just from using bad ROM files or if there is random failures on some carts. Anyway I just wanted to share what I found. EverDrive N8 is already on my shopping list.

Are the graphics corrupted in Turtles I? Ironically the graphics are correct on NOAC clones, corrupt on my NES and AV Famicom.

And yes, Kirby maps the same 8kb SRAM bank as other games. Loading any game that uses "work" RAM (including SMB2 and SMB3) will erase the Kirby save. Also they used PAL versions of Kirby, SMB2, Parodius, and possibly others. Not that it matters much as you can use the AVS in PAL mode to play these games at the correct speed and tempo.

I just finished playing through Turtles 2 and 3 without any issues. I'm going to play the others soon.

Switching to PAL mode on the AVS just blanks the screen on my Samsung HDTV.
 

Some built in games on the multi do have sprite or audio corruption issues on real hardware, so keep that in mind. I get the feeling the games on these multi-boots were only tested on cloned hardware.

 

I would strongly urge everyone never to use these cartridges or anything like them (which appear to include the FF7 Repros and those 8-bit Music Famicom carts) on official/real hardware. They are dangerous to vintage hardware, as described in better detail here :

https://db-electronics.ca/2017/07...

Leave them to the clones, which they appear to be designed for anyway.

I'm not big on these carts but I have no issue with folks wanting repros, as long as they're marked as such, of the insanely expensive or super rare carts. As long as they're marked as repros it doesn't hurt prices but as said above don't use them on original hardware.

I'm going to rebutt this article for a moment. I first read this the other day but I think the risk to hardware is grossly exaggerated. If anything this article is perpetuating fear mongering against unlicensed devices, whether the source is Far East bootlegs or botique flash carts...

I can and do run clones and everdrives in my hardware, as you well know from my Music Machine dumps. These flash chips are not shorting the CMOS logic to ground; in fact there's barely more than 1V of droop on the output if that, and I'm skeptical they are really pulling anywhere near 12mA per output. Yes, the voltage output will droop a bit, but it's no worse than original cart hardware that exibits "bus conflicts" or other issues. During a "bus conflict" event, the on cart logic circuit attempts to write a different value to a register compared to the CPU. Bus conflicts can and do occur on bidirectional busses, and typically with CMOS the grounded output wins over the high logic output. Since the high outputs are weaker than low output, and it is the high output being pulled low, if CMOS or TTL logic chips (yes they are different families with different characteristics but I'm not going down that rabbit hole) are designed robustly enough so that during a bus contention event, they fight each other, pulling high outputs low enough to register a low signal on another input (LOW logic <= 0.8v according to specs), without damage to either logic chip, then I don't see how a 5V CMOS chip, which does not see damage when a high logic output is pulled down to below 0.8V during a common bus conflict event, is going to see any damage at all when a high logic is pulled down to 3.9V. The maximum current ratings is the maximum current the chip is capable to supply while maintaining a proper logic level within specs. Exceeding this threshold the chip won't burn up, but the signal level will experience brownout. These electronics are built by design to have relatively high output impedance characteristics dealing with signal logic, such that overloading the output will never cause enough internal heating to burn anything up. The chip may run say five degrees warmer above ambient temperature, but certainly it won't get scalding hot, and certainly not generate enough heat to achieve a thermal runaway scenario or reach breakdown temps at the silicon junction.

Room temp 25C. Body temp 37C. Water boils at 100C. Solder melts around 200C. MOSFETs break down above 300C.

There are exactly two ways to destroy MOSFET transistor junctions, one is to exceed the breakdown voltage, ie through an ESD event, which occur well above the nominal 5V or 3.3V operation. The other failure method is extreme heat. Enough to cause the junction to literally break down and release it's magic smoke. Sure, operating logic at well above rated voltage will cause thermal issues. Twice the voltage is equivalent to twice the current and four times the heat dissipation in a purely resistive load, but it is worse with semiconductors. Silicon diodes have a nominal voltage drop of .6-.8V, and any series of logic will have series voltage drops in addition to some resistance threshold. Generally the junctions also pass more current when changing state than when steady. So small increases in voltage will consume more current and power than small increases to a purely resistive load. But the 5V logic isn't being operated over 5V, it's just sinking excess current into the 3.3V device. And look at how insanely huge those DIP 5V chips are compared to the 3.3V SMT parts. That cockroach sized CPU or PPU or whatever vintage 5V processor could dissipate an order of magnitude more heat before it burns up than that tiny housefly sized logic chip on your unauthorized device. I would be far more concerned with the safety of your unauthorized device running at 3.3V and interfacing with a higher voltage logic bus than I ever would be with your console's 30-year-old 5V hardware.

End Rant.

You should post that in the comments section of the DB-elec article, or just message him directly.

+1

Also dayum. Oh, snap! The only burning you'll see is from that rebuttal. lol    Good info, mang.
 

Done, pending moderation.  

https://db-electronics.ca/2017/07...

 

He saw it already.

He rejected it? Lame...

If it were my blog, I would always approve posts contrary to my own opinion as long as they were respectful, for benefit of discussion.

He read it, so he atleast took the time to see your opinion.

With many NES games the hardware is such that a bus conflict COULD happen, but in practice, it never actually will (tho anything is possible with a dirty connector).  In my experience of dumb programming mistakes, when there is a real bus conflict the NES will crash, every single time.  It's possible that the Game Genie does, I'm not 100% certain how it works, but it also has series resistors and can shut off the cartridge ROM before the NES is done reading it (the data bus does not pass through the chip).

Your rebuttal seems sound to me, but personally I wouldn't use these crappy carts on my own real NES anyways.  For the same reason I avoid using ethanol-blended gasoline in my 2000 Sentra, it works because I've done it before, but it wasn't designed for it.

I'm expecting some people will flip their lid when they find out my next NES cart uses a 4-layer board with solid power planes.  Oh noes, you added 50 cents to the cost!! Imagine the fabulous lifestyle I could have lived if only I had saved that $50!!  

Sounds like an exciting mapper.

I noticed your GT-ROM seems to pull a lot of current when plugged into NOAC clone systems. The screen doesn't even boot to white or solid color, just wavering gray jailbars, and the power LED dims. Am I risking damage to the game cart or NOAC???

I have some honebrews by Khan and others using the mapper, just wanted to say they play awesome on the original NES, AV Famicom (some third party pin adapters work, others don't), or AVS. Thank you for making those games possible with your hardware.  

 

I haven't heard of any damage happening yet, but I would not be surprised, if it was left on for a long time.  If GTROM can be killed by a bad clone that would be useful to know, and I'd gladly repair or exchange a GTROM board.

The clones, and apparantly those pin adapters too, have the wrong pinout.  I'm almost certain the NOAC part itself has the right input since older clone systems are fine.  But 99.9% of FC/NES carts don't use the 4-screen memory expansion, so I'm guessing some dork didn't connect it, then that clone was cloned, etc.  The only official games that used it are Rad Racer 2, Gauntlet, Napoleon Senki, and those are in the same situation.  They need to disable the NES's PPU-RAM, otherwise the cart's RAM is enabled at the same time and conflicting with it.

Thanks for buying homebrew stuff.  

Nah, only left it on for like five seconds. Other homebrew stuff like Powerpak didn't work on the Yobo and Gamerz Tek, but the GT ROMs actually dim the power LED on two clone systems.

There have been some wonderful homebrews made on it though.

I love this cartridge, Lol! It's great!!!

It is a great "instant collection", with only a handful of missing essentials, and much less filler overall than the larger compilations. If they had tweaked the mapper slightly so that other MMC3 games didn't use Kirby's save file as work RAM, it would be nearly perfect, at least by bootleg standards.

 

I agree I just recently got this and it's pretty damn sweet for a multicart. It took forever to get here though from Ali Express

Just curious, was your 150-in-1 red or yellow? I think at some point they changed it. Very early runs had a square mosaic on the label that mine lacks but otherwise the same. The piss-yellow carts had a different label art too I believe. Another minor ROM difference exists where the boot menu had Mario or Sonic on it.

 

Red w/Mario

So basically the same as mine. Cool.