Definite, 100% reseal.  There is visible wear under the wrap, look at the pictures.  When you see whitened corners under plastic, then the game has been resealed.  It is impossible to get a whitened corner with significant wear unless the wrap was also trashed there with a corner poke.  Back top of the box also appears to have the white crease on the back top as well from being opened.  If you posted a better picture of the back top it would be even more evident.

 

Agree it looks like a reseal. I'm a pal collector so can't comment on the legitimacy of the seal (or variants). However, one main tip is to look for wear under the seal and any crease lines along the edges.
As a subsequent point, whoever wants to enquire about the legitimacy of their sealed game, you need to take good detailed photos, and avoid any pics with glare whenever possible.

Thanks for the help guys. After your wisdom and some thorough research elsewhere on the internet, I decided this was definitely a reseal. I opened it up and sure enough it was a reseal. Everything is there and in near mint condition, so for a second I thought maybe I just opened up a legit sealed game, but the giveaway was that the gameboy cartridge had those small scratch marks on the bottom of the back side that all gameboy games get when you keep putting the cartridge in your gameboy and taking it out.

So after doing some digging, it seems like if there is no horizontal or vertical seal on the back of a gameboy or gbc game, then it's a reseal. Most games had a horizontal seal, aka an "H" seal, while some had a vertical seal on the back. I didn't come across anything saying there were some legit seals without a horizontal or vertical seam on the back, but it's very possible I missed something, so correct me if I'm wrong.

There are plenty of legit GBA and GBC games without the H seam or V Seam. Each game is a separate issue.

Hi there, read the whole thread and is still have a couple questions on sealed games.

So im pondering starting a smallish graded collection of my snes favourites....

1- whats the pricing dofference between 85+silver and gold? And 85+ gold vs 90 gold? Is there kind of a rule of thumb for pricing spreads or its jus too few and far between that its hard to say!

2- as a follow up i assume said pricing depends on the population of grades for a given fame. Is there a database with the pop report or the only source is to ask vga directly?

I'd appreciate a pm with some tips if this lind of info is too sensitive to the bigger players.

Thanks all

I will try and answer your questions the best I can.  There's just a lot of variable so it's going to seem vague. 

There is a large increase in price when going from silver (75 to 85) to gold (85+ to 100). Sometimes double or more than what an 85  fetches. Definitely depends on of course the title, population, demand etc. Of course everybody wants gold for the most popular titles too which only creates more demand. I actually find the 85 grade to be a nice balance between price and condition. An 85 is still a damn nice piece. 

There is no database. We have been told for YEARS that they are working on it but its never happened.  
 

Thanks for the answer. Sealed collecting really is daunting when you have no prior experience.

Still, in your opinion whats the physical difference between 85 silver and 85 gold? Is it noticeable?

No prob. 

Physical difference is very slight.  An 85 may have a corner poke, slight corner dent, cello scuff, they can be barely noticeable but factors for sure.  Seems they grade heavily based on the condition of the cello. I've seen 85+ titles with corner dents but the cello is clean.  Personally I'd actually prefer no corner dents and slight scuffing to the cello as compared to a corner dent, but that's me. When they get cased and wrapped a lot of the scuffing isn't noticeable.



 

I can't say for all games, but a general principle is that you assume each game gets a score of 100. Each additional flaw(s) for either the box or the seal
would get a score deduction. Also depending on where the flaw is might get different deductions eg. a scuff mark at the front surface might be worth a bigger flaw than a scuff mark at the bottom surface of a box.
My advice is for whoever wants to give VGA a try, is to buy a few cheap games first, to get a general feel of what it's about. There are no better substitute for first-hand direct observation of a VGA-graded game, to understand its basic concept in the scoring system.

 

On the VGA website, I can't seem to select a slower grading for a lower cost. They used to have different tiers based on the amount of time, but the online submission form only has the highest price tier available to select from the dropdown. Does anyone know if there's a way to select a cheaper option and wait longer to get my graded game?

Getting ready to send in my first thing to vga and when I go to print the label usps changes the city from Norcross to Peachtree Corners. I'm assuming that's ok? I'm used to small changes happening when printing as usps is standardizing but I'm not used to the whole city changing.

Yes, that is okay and I had the same concerns when I first started shipping there as well.  For some reason both of those are synonmous and Paypal label printing forces it one way. 
 

Perfect, thank you sir.

I have a few questions for you guys. They will grade open games if they never originally came sealed from the factory, so I assume games like Huge Insect would qualify for this. How about games like NWC and the DuckTales gold cartridge?

Edit:  After reading through some other threads, it seems some people have gotten NWC graded and other test carts authenticated but NG.  It seems cool, but I don't really understand the benefit of this.   

I'm not 100% sure, but I believe VGA stopped grading cart only and memorabilia type items (controllers, etc.). 

 

I just got an email back from them.  They said they still can grade these type items.  For DuckTales, they want the lunchbox and all the fliers and shredded money, too. 

Looking for opinions here as I have an opportunity to have the original receipt of an item cased along side the game (for an extra $60). The item is a Hyrule warriors NYC so the receipt is from the Nintendo World Store there. But I can't decide if it's cool or stupid to do lol?

Anyone have any thoughts or have seen anything done like this?

Bad idea, doesn't carbon receipt paper fade? Soon it will just be a blank sheet. Although I could be mistaken. Maybe it will he preserved because its air tight, im no expert.

Thanks, for the response. I don't have the receipt with me at the moment but depending on the ink/paper it could either completely fade or the opposite and turn all black. So I decided to forget it.

Glad to help, goodluck with the grading. Should be a small fortune for the “custom case” charge.

Just out of curiosity, has any one had any experience grading sealed FDS games?
I have a sealed 3d Hot Rally I have been considering along with a few odds and ends and another Japanese oddity I just paid for.

Hi all, I got a sealed gba reader and I think it is probably a reseal, but I would like to get a second opinion before I open it. I attached some pictures:

Hello all, I've got 10 "sealed" GBA titles that I wanted to get some additional opinions on whether they are genuine original seals or if they are re-seals. Regardless, all of these will be for sale. Thanks in advance!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/MmIZGvw...

Hello guys, so I really need help verifying if I have a factory sealed or resealed conkers bad fur day. I recently picked it up for a good deal. Big thanks to whoever reply’s with knowledge.  

How exactly do they examine a sealed game, by opening it carefully and then resealing? Their general info page doesn't work for me.