Which S-ENC chip are you referring to?

Last I checked, if the video signal voltage was too high, you wouldn't see it on the TV. I might be confusing this with analog RGB though. With RGB, it's 1.0v when it displays pure white, but usually averages at 0.7v or less.

I wonder if this higher voltage is the problem when I try to use my modded SFC on my plasma the image is jumpy. On my CRT it is perfect. I'm still not convinced it is a 240p problem, i'll have to try tapping from these other points.

As I understand it, most TV's will accept the progressive based video over composite, but not necessarily over YPbPr. Sounds like a 240p problem to me.

Hi, i'm trying to get my UK pal snes to work on a USA NTSC plasma tv. I have performed the region free 50/60hz mod successfully but I've yet to get the colour working. The pal snes model number is "SNSP-001A(UKV)" and the composite chip is "S-ENC 9325 M51 F". Does the 9325 M51 chip have the same pins as the "S-ENC 9304 M82 F"? Also I have to change the power rating going through RGB cables but I'm not sure and worried about blowing my TV up. Any information or a even a guide would be really helpful. thanks

Wanted to bump this instead of creating a new thread(and to bring up the apparent information).

I have the BA6592F encoder chip i.e 1st launch model SNES(has a huge sound/audio box in the upper right on the board) and successfully performed this mod. It bothers me theres so much criss-crossing information when doing this mod so here's what I found out.

Simplest system to mod is the SNES with the S-ENC chip, you can spot a older model snes by the yellowing shell, printed on lettering for eject(not the etched/brail eject) and the chastity bar(as I coined it lol) that comes out and goes into older cartridges(the horizontal slot on the cartridge) to prevent you from taking your cart out while the system is on. You can hold in the dust cover and turn on the power switch to see the "bar" come out. BUT STILL ultimately you have to take apart the system to identify what encoder ship is in it.

Mine had all of the above but had the BA6592F encoder in it. The pin out is the same as the S-ENC but you have to add a 220uf cap on the Red and Blue line. Then for Green/L you want to tap Pin 7 on the AV out, since this is already amped and good to go...otherwise if you tap the Green/L i.e pin 23 on the encoder the colors wont be as vibrant.

I was fiddling around doing a mix of both above at first, soldering all 3 wires directly to the encoder chip and the picture came up but the colors were washed and no amount of adjustment on the TV would fix this. I then tapped pin 7 on the AV out and the picture was brighter but still color issues. Then I saw this guide http://mikejmoffitt.com/wp/?p=74... where at the top he mentions the use of 220uf caps for the R and B signals.

Separating this paragraph to negate confusion. The guide above he's using the S-ENC encoder but then still mentions the use of caps even though his mod/guide he doesnt include the caps in the wiring. As well hes attempting to soldering to pin outs according to a different encoder then troubleshooting the issue once he figured out he had a S-ENC and could just tap pins 1 R -24B-23 G on the encoder.(he mis labels them down below in his guide ARRRHHH)

If you have a newer model system, or a different encoder then whats listed above I CANNOT guarantee these mods to work without additional circuitry. I know for a fact the 1 chip -S-RGB encoder you need to add extras because they negated the circuitry out of the box for the encoder to output RGB correctly. I performed this mod on my newer S-RGB(old model, not a mini) snes and got a picture but there was a hard pink haze across the picture because of such.

On my Sony LCD TV  the picture comes up and has the vertical bar thru the middle on dark screens and looks BETTER. However on my smaller Samsung CRT TV 14 inch that has component out (http://www.cnet.com/products/sams...) the picture is astonishing and amazing. PIcked up this TV for $5 at a goodwill for just this such use.

Picture does not do it justice:

so for s-enc you just run the wires straight through? and for 6592 you add caps?

Seems that way YES, I havent seen anyone mod up the 6592F and have a solid report so thats why I bumped this thread and threw in my findings. Plus as said in the link I posted above, the guy has a S-ENC encoder but says at the top to put capacitors in line on the RED/Blue, but then doesn't do this on his wire job....however I figured to do this since my Green/L looked alright but my colors werent coming in good, hence a SCART cable has 220uf caps built in on the RGB lines (NTSC) and 75k resistors on PAL. Tapping from AV pin 7 it looked good/amped up on the luma, therefore it sort of made sense and thats the route I went for the Red and Blue runs.

I cant thoroughly speak on the S-ENC not having it modded in front of me, but from what ive saw on youtube and here YES..you can run the 3 wires to pins 1R-24B-23G(L) and be good to go. Although possibly to make soldering it easier(depending on your skills) since blue and green are next to each other on the encoder you could(not 100% sure) tap pin 7 on the AV out to get your green(L). All the mod pictures ive seen for the S-ENC people have all 3 wires tagging the encoder chip directly.

Considering the revisions and such them taking out, not having this etc etc. why I said the S-ENC is the go to chip as it seems its all good and raring to go just tap the 3 points and wire out. But the original OP for this thread said he went with pin 7 on the AV out as pin 23 on the encoder didnt give him proper colors.

EDIT: Will put up a video showing quality later on. Something I want to mention considering 6592F model theres the BIG sound board on the top right corner and as seen in this pic its a VERY tight fit, one reason I left my systems top off is im not sure If I can fit it all back together, the AV out/AC adapter panel on the back isnt set flushly into the bottom of the shell. If you want to work it on this model 6592F you may have to put the jacks on the side of the system or perfectly measure to have them line up below this sound board. I ended up using the bottom shell of my S-RGB system I tried to mod and just swapped the gutts from the 6592f into the bottom with the jacks already wired/mounted.  This might be the only model that has this sound board in that corner?



2nd EDIT: When I refer to pin 7 on the AV I mean the 4th pin (4th pin from the left) on the AV out socket that you see when you take it apart. This is pin 7 on the AV out(From left to right, 1,3,5,7 etc are the pin outs on the AV facing you) I DO NOT MEAN pin 7 on the Encoder chip. Seen to the left is my green wire going to the AV multi out.

IDK what I did but may have to redo my wiring...my component mod is outputting a straight black and white picture whilst via AV red/white/yellow im getting the normal color picture.

I still have it wired dirty and open and I bumped it and jostled it around doing some tests on a larger 40in+ tv and it just gave out I guess.

EDIT: troubleshooted it..my tip connections on the component jacks in the case are like all loose from smashing the shielding/sound module back on that corner on em. at least 2 out of the 3 leads are loose...jiggled them and ended up getting the full color picture back over component..will post back when i fix it.

Had to resolder my green and red leads going to the jacks. Red wasnt even getting connected and green was loose. When I 1st did this mod I had to sometimes jiggle the cables to get it to have a picture.

Moral of the story is measure jacks properly before setting them in the case and 2 trying to force it to fit with larger board set in the shell. Like I said I used a 1 chip S-RGB model snes case and put in the guts of a BA6592F unit. The board and everything fits but most of the screw holes to mount back in the main board arent even existent, and as well where I mounted my jacks it JUST allows the shielding + board to fit back in.

Bump...going to do this again eventually..including the one I modded I have 1 more BA6592F and another system I just picked up that is either the same or possibly a S-ENC or there of...

All of them have yellowing shells. Problem with the BA6592F is the ports have to be located somewhere else as the back of the system isnt viable with that big sound module there(as seen in last pic). Im thinking to the back left side of the shell theres plenty of depth and can easily slide around to hit pins 24 and 1 for the encoder chip(left side of system, near the back).

So it seems I have a almost confirmed list of necessary methods to get solid picture doing component mods on various Encoders, as follows below:

S-ENC encoder - Can tap all 3 leads from encoder with no additional components needed.

S-ENC B encoder - Tap Red and Blue from encoder, then Green/luma needs to come from pin 7 on Av multi out port(as OP posted)

BA6592F encoder - Red and blue from encoder, but a 220uf capacitor needs to be inline on those, Then green/luma from pin 7 on AV multi out port.

S-RGB, have to build amplification circuit (as seen elsewhere)

The only straggler im not sure about is BA6595 which the board revision is labeled RGB, so im assuming its a cousin of the S-RGB chip and probably will need the amp circuit.

Great page for various revisions and parts list of SNES:http://console5.com/wiki/SNES...

just a bump update:

Found a set where my component modded snes didnt produce a stable image. ON my buddies newer samsung TV the picture was shaky as some described...however on my own larger 40+in samsung LCD it produced a fine image.

It was pulling 240p, image looked fine but was jumping/shaky.