I'm not up for making videos, but I could take pics and throw together a guide to disabling the lockout chip. Really like this FAQ Nightowljrm, very well-organized

Sure, anything to help! As long as it's by a NintendoAge user, that's good. I just thought a video would be best. Since a guide like that would clutter the thread; maybe it'd be best to post it in an individual thread and then we'll link it? 

What do you think?

Bump! The girlfriend's busy at the moment, so I have a moment to bump the thread and give an update.

There's a user that's in the process of typing up an EXCELLEN article that I think will be very important to everyone who cleans their games - in other words - everyone on NintendoAge.

And Paul, I'm gonna go ahead and add you input whenever I can - within the next few days.

Alder, looking forward to the guide you make! (If you haven't made it already, sorry, I haven't had time to browse NA).

Alder made a pretty good thread on how to store Nintendo Power Magazine. 

http://www.nintendoage.com/forum/...

Sounds good to me.  I am pretty sure I have an NES console lying around that hasn't had the chip disabled yet

How to add photo/picture to a thread/reply.
http://www.nintendoage.com/forum/...

Got that question so often it got it's own sticky for a while.
Picture and video link instructions inside previous thread.

Thank you, Benihana! I will add that now. 


Sounds great!

So mine and my girlfriend's visit together has ended, so now I can continue to monitor this off and on every day. Thanks for all of the contribution so far; it's really what I hoped for in this thread.


Thanks! Alder's thread on Nintendo Power organization has been added to the OP.

Bump.

Been kinda busy lately; lots of homework and then whatever free time I have, been hanging with friends. Anyone else have suggestions? There's still plenty of room for improvement.

I've got a few updates

1) In my Nintendo Power storage thread, another member pointed out that some types of plastic can deteriorate over time. I'm not sure what quality of plastic the ones I used are, or over what time span they'd begin to deteriorate, but apparently using Mylar protectors is the safest route for storing magazines/comics.

EDIT: I just checked the ones I got -- it says they're acid-free and non-PVC.

2) In your cartridge cleaning section, you mention about cleaning permanent marker off of the cartridge by using a dry-erase marker. I've actually never done that, but I've done it several times when the marker is on the label or box -- which, by scrolling a bit, I saw you didn't have an entry for. Whether this works depends on the type of paper and marker, but I've done this personally with a Pokemon Crystal box (with permanent marker on it) and it came off very easily. I have some ripped up NES manuals that I can sacrifice to see how they react

3) A while ago I noticed this thread to mod your NES Max controller to have a small thumbstick instead of that silly disc thing: http://www.nintendoage.com/forum/...

For some reason I'm not able to view those step-by-step images. It might be the computer I'm using. Regardless, I just ordered a Max controller and plan to order some thumbsticks (Xbox 360) and perhaps salvage a few D-pads from misc. controllers to see if any of them can be used. If you think controller modding is appropriate for this thread, then maybe I can throw a guide together for that as well

Also.. my two cents on shipping:

For loose carts, go with a small padded envelope (the ones with bubble-wrap on the inside); size depends on the cart, of course. The post office usually has them for $1-$2, and you can get packs of them at Wal Mart and other office supply stores for well under a dollar each.

For CIB games, you could use another padded envelope OR go with a box. A large box may require a medium flat rate (USPS) box, but most CIB games fit very nicely in a small flat rate box. They are 8.5" x 1.5" x 5". Bubble wrap as much as you can so the game is snug. Definitely go with a box if it's sealed or mint or something. If it's just a CIB common, a bubble mailer should be fine but always talk about shipping details with the buyer/seller beforehand.

I'll be sure to make those additions tomorrow!

I would like to clarify for those wondering about the magic erasers. These products are made of a material known as a "micro-abrasive." It works much like a very very very fine sandpaper. This is why you are supposed to dampen it, like wet sand paper and why it can remove anything... eventually.

Anything that has a texture, or a layered finish (paint, paper label, etc.) will be gradually worn down with excessive use.

Second, concerning goo gone and cart labels:
I have successfully cleaned crayon / marker / residue from cartridge labels using goo-gone. I use a micro-fiber cloth. It is important to squirt a small amount on a towel, and let it wick / dry until it feels damp but won't leave wet marks when pressed onto plastic. Then, gently and quickly wipe the affected area. Wait a moment, for it to dry if it needs more. The key is to not allow the goo gone to penetrate the glossy finish. If the label has dulled (the gloss is gone), it's not worth trying as you WILL damage the label.

Also, I'd never try this on a rare or valuable game. As has been said before, risk vs. reward.

I'd consider making videos, I've replaced 72 pins, disabled lock-outs. I've also done a fair share of repair / mods that require soldering. 

Just thought of another one. How to handle with batteries left in portables that have leaked all over the battery compartment?

You will need:

1. An acid such as vinegar or lemon juice
2. gloves and goggles
3. cotton swabs
4. paper towels

Alkalines & most rechargables leak sodium or potassium hydroxide which forms a greenish or white crust.
**** Be careful, this stuff can cause burns on your skin. Wear gloves and glasses, be careful ****

1. Carefully remove the bad batteries if they are still there. Dispose of them in the trash.
2. Apply vinegar with cotton swabs to neutralize the crusty stuff. It should bubble a bit from the vinegar.
3. Wipe it away with clean swabs and towels. Minimize the use of water as this will only corrode the electronics further
4. Use a tooth brush or fine wire brush if the swabs alone aren't working.
5. Inspect the battery contacts to ensure they aren't corroded away. If they are, the contacts can usually be replaced with parts from Radio Shack and a little bit of soldering.

Thank you for your contribution! I'll add it when I can. I was originally going to tonight but I am extremely sick and the doctor's office took four hours... I need to do homework and get some rest. I will try very hard to update tomorrow, though.

Yikes. Sorry you're sick. Don't stress over updating, just get around to it when you can no rush lol.

Thanks for the input, bennybtl. Feel free to make any videos and contribute whatever you want.

I have a few tips to add.

When cleaning marker from cart plastic I also use the alcohol and Q-Tip method. If there is some marker left (which there usually is) I dampen the area with a little more alcohol and use a standard school pink eraser to clean the remaining marker. This method seems to work pretty well and the pink eraser is not abrasive like the Magic Eraser.

I have one thing to add to the toploader pin cleaning method too. I always keep a few old white T-shirts around with my game cleaning supplies. I use the credit card method too but I wrap a piece of the shirt over the card instead of cardboard. The advantages that I see are that the shirt will not rip like the cardboard and leave a piece lost deep down in your machine, the shirt does not leave lint like a paper towel or cardboard can and if you use a white shirt you can see your progress and know when everything is totally clean.

Thank you guys. That's some great information. Once more: I'll update when I can. Hopefully tomorrow.

Is the credit card method different for the toploader than a standard toaster 72 pin connector? I did it with plain computer paper (on a normal 72 pin connector) and it worked pretty well -- never tried cloth but I did use the things that came with the NES Cleaning Kit and it gripped the pins, pulling a few of the up and out of place

If you are going to use that method with your toaster you will have to take it apart, or at least take the top off. The pin connector in the toaster is easier to remove so it is easier to clean/replace. The toploader pin connector is easier to just clean in place rather than taking it apart.

Oh, yeah. I had it disassembled. I was trying that boiling method for the 72PC. Tried it on about 3 old connectors but it didn't seem to do much at all for me :S

Hooray! Major update! Everything's caught up that I feel comfortable putting up. I do need some clarification on a few things:

@Alder: In using dry-erase marker to clean marker off labels and off the Pokemon Crystal box, what steps did you take? Did you use alcohol at all (which I find unlikely)? Did you simply apply the dry-erase marker and gently wipe it off?

About the update: I added two sections, clarified about magic eraser, expanded upon a handful of cleaning threads, and in general cleaned up a few things. Took about an hour.

Just read through, and I think this is sticky worthy. Let's stick it at the top for a month and see how it works out.

Cool! That's a good sign we're on the right track. I feel like it still has a long way to go, but it's nice to see it's already a good resource. 

(The thread doesn't appear to be stickied).

Also, I got another idea for a section on the FAQ. One directing toward Nerdy Night's and answering general questions on how to get started with homebrew. I'll probably talk to GradualGames to get some input on that.