Yes John I can tell lol

Originally posted by: johnblueriggs
As the video shows above, Brad was able to get the system fixed. He's great at repairs. He saw my video and said, "I can do it!" so I sent it his way, with Shawn Long's approval. All is good.

I didn't glue it, Shawn did as a last ditch effort before he sent it to me. I don't mind what Brad did at all. Does it work? Yes! Then I'm good.

No need to apologize for calling us hacks. We do it for fun, not to impress anyone.

*pokes*

edit: hopped up on coffee and can't decide on the best format for a casual poke... erm... ignore phrasing.

edit edit: making this worse.
 

Oh I must have misunderstood, my bad.
http://tinyurl.com/zt6p6jg...

 

All good! I wouldn't use glue. I still might solder it without taking it out of it's plastic shell, but never glue.  

btw did you click the link in that post? You should.

That was just alternative solder  

I think he's saying that it already had glue on it. He says at 3:45 that the glue is melting and that was before he added his own.

BTW, NintendoAge always screws up my links when I link to a particular time code. How did you get around that? Hopefully it's something I can do on mobile (my primary use case by far), which is already difficult as it is.

Edit: OK, I see that you use TinyURL. Nice.  

Edit 2: The original owner out-right says he glued it in Brad's successful repair video. Yours was very nice but I wouldn't expect Brad to do it like you when it's all covered in Superglue/KrazyGlue/Cyanoacrylate. Even if it weren't, the scope/demo seems to be showing people how they can do it themselves, not how the best of the best pros do it with equipment and experience his audience will likely never have. 

http://www.romhacking.net/forum/i...

You just use "Game Genie Guy" to patch the ROM with the NESDev Game Genie cheats from here:
https://forums.nesdev.com/viewtop...

Split the ROM and burn to the chips as usual. Wire like any other TLROM repro.

DO IT!  

Thanks! I'm always on the lookout for essential Rom tools.

Lookin' good; glad you guys fixed it. And I can't believe he did fine pitch solder work with a chisel tip. Blows my mind. Get a needle tip from the Shack or something...

Surprisingly, I see a lot of professionals specifically saying not to use a needle tip and recommending a chisel tip. Pretty sure I've heard this from the likes of GameTech US, EEVBlog, etc. I use a needle tip but I frequently see exactly what they are talking about when I sometimes simply cannot get it to transfer heat from a certain angle/position where a chisel tip would have worked fine.

See? I don't do fine pitch hand solder work and limit my mods to through hole stuff, which is fine for anything prior to 16-bit era.

I wouldn't have thought a blunt tip like a chisel would be better suited than a needle tip, because small work = small tip. And while the heat transfer is slower with the smaller surface area, the parts are also smaller and heat up faster.

Just goes to show I don't know everything. When studying Electrical Engineering Technology, they never taught us how to do fine pitch work in school. We took a very basic fab class as a freshman electronics course where we learned to use a soldering iron, and nearly everything we touched afterwards was done on breadboards.

In fact most industry in manufacturing is done with reflow ovens, pick and place robots, and RoHS complaint lead-free solder. Through hole work is reserved only for connectors and parts which require robustness, since human labor is required for through hole parts whom are an order of magnitude slower than robots.

I even toured a local facility with their own fab plant. Hardly anyone does fine pitch handwork in a modern manufacturing environment, where it is generally cheaper to scrap and replace the PCB or even whole device than to make hand repairs on it.

So hobbiest modding and electronics repair requires a very different skillset compared to traditional manufacturing. Though I must admit, my education came in handy when it comes to designing my own circuits without a schematic to follow. I don't need a schematic to know how to add turbo function to an arcade controller for instance.

No problem! As it turns out, I'm on the look out for Water Bears in Lake Vostok (well, I check for the latest developments a few times a year). I'll call you if we [they] need help wrangling one.  

 

Yeah. Even most professional rework setups will typically use hot air these days with very little hand soldering. I'm always amazed at what can be done by hand though, though I've certainly never impressed myself with any of my bodges.   I was prepared to ruin an N64 when I did UltraHDMI but the FPC (flex PCB cable) Marshall made worked wonders. With liquid flux, nothing bridged and all I had to do was run the tinned iron along the RCP (Reality CoProcessory; N64's GPU). The people who were soldering a ton of wires to a Wii D2C drive controller chip were amazingly able to do that kind of work without a crutch like a perfectly engineered FPC cable, which still impresses me.