I figured it's closer to $23, especially when you buy in larger quantities from ebay or the like..but yeah the time you save in not having to mess with desoldering (or cleaning old board contacts, replacing batteries etc) makes it worth it in my opinion. It was the leading factor in my changing over to new parts.

Also, i'd like to recommend OnlineLabels.com. I bought all my label paper from there. On all my later repros I used the OL175WI paper, and the labels looked pristine (shameless plug) and were water and smudge resistant. And they can be printed with any inkjet or laser printer Gives a professional look, and looks a hell of a lot better than sticker paper with tape over it . They are a bit more expensive at around $90 for 100 sheets, but you can print 10 labels per sheet for a total of 1000 labels...works out to only $0.09 per label. Not counting printer ink of course!

You can also try the OL175WG from them, which also gives very nice results (not as good as the 175WI for sure), but it costs a fraction of the price at $49.95 for 100 sheets, which doing the math drops your label price to $0.05 per label.

Thank you so much for the label info, I wanted to start printing my own labels but no one wanted to share what type of paper to get.

Well it's a secret I can now give out

I also have label templates if anyone is interested in them for making your own.

Just got my PCBs in the mail today, they are great, made myself a copy of Terranigma NTSC.

Only issue I had was there was no indication of positive and negative on the batter, used the multi meter to confirm before soldering it in.

Sorry, I'll clarify it in my tutorial. Generally speaking the larger solder hole is always the Positive side, but I'll specify it for future reference.

Any update on when the ExHiROM boards will be available?

Hey guys. My pcb will be available soon. Been working on it for several months getting it right.
Here's a YouTube link to it.



Sorry for the long video.

Planning on a target price of $15. Just add roms. No assembly required. It's just the pcb though. No case or roms.
Retrostage makes a great pcb, no doubt! Just wanted to throw my hat in the ring.

Thanks!

Just waiting for my prototypes to arrive. Should be here in a couple weeks. They are a one-stop-shop, able to handle 64K or 256K Srams, up to 96Mbit of rom (for Star Ocean), and all with simple drop in parts.

Is that you Markfrisbie? I noticed you advertising in the thread about my boards on Nesdev as well.

No, just a good friend.

Hey Retrostage,

Was looking at your website and i see you're working on a NES PCB. What mappers are you going to support?

Also snesUnlimited,

What would you say the biggest different is between yours and marks?

Currently I'll have 3 different NES boards, as it becomes too complex to assemble otherwise. One for the discrete mappers, CNROM,NROM, A*ROM and U*ROM. One for MMC1, and one for MMC3 games.

Is it possible to buy mmc1 chips? Or have to salvage

Neither. Both the MMC1 and MMC3 boards will be using custom chips that will come pre-populated on the board. The point of these boards is that they won't require any donors, thus *hopefully* saving a few games out there

These are Marks pcb's.   I'm just helping him out.  

Edit:  Mark wanted to make a repo cart that involved no assembly except for the ROMs.  There's just less that can go wrong with a pre-assembled cart.  What if you built a cart and didn't realze that the game you wanted was really  Hi rom, and you just built a Lo rom cart.... with Mark's, you just flip a switch (or solder a jumper). So the I-messed-up-factor is reduced greatly.   Plus, if you install sockets, then you can test other game roms also.

Cool! Didn't know this could be done.

Added NES Reproboards!

Also added a new SNES pcb capable of running Star Ocean, as well as all other types, with up to 256K SRAM due to popular request

Finally someone with sane prices on board, especially for bulk=discount deal, not bad.

You really need to add the notches to the middle sides that help hold the board in the cart on the two that don't have the screw and fami locator holes in the middle, discrete and mmc1.
Some clones have a death grip on the pcb and when pulling the cart out of the console the only plastic pulling on the pcb is two little tabs at the finger edge and these can break and you'll pull the pcb out the bottom of the shell.
I show it here:

I think that is extremely unlikely.

I've put these carts through "stress tests" of sorts with both clones and regular consoles, and I've never had to reef on the cart to get them out of any clone (albeit, they do require more effort). Even still, using an original or well made reproduction shell (I'm not talking about the INL shells, as posted in your video) the plastic is thick enough that you would have to use Hulk-level strength to bust the PCB out of there. And if you have to do that...get a different system

Just trying to help, it happened to two smb/dh carts on a Yobo I was testing for a buddy.
Murphy's law and all...

No harm no foul! I just haven't seen the need for it, as even with my FC-Twin and RetroDUO it wasn't that hard to pull out (that's what she said? )

All that being said though, if the system makes it that hard to pull games out its probably a bad idea for regular games as well. It shouldn't be like pulling a cart out of vice-grips, as that's bound to scratch up the contacts or damage them otherwise.

For death grip systems you pull from one side of the cart only. Easy detach

Still, tabs should be there, nice catch. It's terrible PCB design-wise. The stress does somewhere....a 5+MM of plastic notches is better than a thin line a few-MM of PCB plastic. I'd imagine with enough use, the copper would be worn because of stress. While, the ground plane on the sides would be fine, if it was even there.

Will a NES Sunsoft 5b board be made?