I remember about 8-10 years ago reading something about the NES having the ability to use s-video and component video. The article stated that Nintendo had all 3 types of output but due to the fact that it was not common for TVs to have s-video and competent, Nintendo left off the connections. I remember seeing photos of where to solder on the connectors for the s-video and component ports. I can not find the information anymore. Google didn't seem to produce any good results. I was wondering if anyone here had experience with this or knew about it.

The video chip in the NES outputs RF and composite video (RCA yellow). You can swap in a video chip from a playchoice 10 or some of the vs. arcade boards (Duck Hunt is a common one I think) to get RGB out. I don't believe there is any native support for s-video or component out.

Even with a PlayChoice-10 PPU, from what I gather the NES RGB requires a special video encoder.

I had the feeling it was a pipe dream.

It's not a pipe dream.  Here's my nes

http://hackaday.com/2011/07/18/hacking-your-nesfamicom-conso...

It's extremely difficult to find playchoice rgb chips now because of the popularity of my mod.  I'm completely sold out of spare rgb chips.

My system features rgb, s-video, composite video, stereo sound with improved bass that you can real time switch between upgraded audio and original audio.  All av outputs I have wired into a multi av port and it's wired up just like a ntsc snes.  So using multi av cables designed for a ntsc snes works perfectly on my machine.

You might be better off tracking down one of these bad boys:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fami...

I put a bid on ebay for one of those with a max of 500$ before shipping and got outbid.  These systems are exactly what I build except my av famicoms are smaller, nicer looking, have controller ports, and my av famicoms come with upgraded audio that's not in the titler or any commercially released famicom/nintendo hardware.

Nomatter what is said, NES DOES NOT OUTPUT SVIDEO. Just do RGB if anything, it actually does it. Palette is somewhat off but close enough for 99% of games. But some like Dizzy break and also Battle Kid pause screen because of using the emphesis bits to dim the colors, which on RGB actually emphasize the colors.

Good to know

will it make you feel better if I say "the mod I do" ?

Thing is, the NES RGB mod had been around long before you ever decided to try doing it, so it isn't right for you to claim ownership when you aren't the first to do it.

Also, as 3Gen said, the NES is incapable of true stereo sound. Splitting audio channels between two speakers doesn't count.

Uhm I never said anywhere I'm the first to do this.  You people sure are sensitive.

Yepp, especially the ones that fuck up their repros and then blame it on someone else. HaHaaaaa!!!!

No, I just blame your shitty advice for wrecking my repro.

Now now people, let's all calm down and play some games.

best consoles are the av famicom and the nes 2.  Even the most jailbar free toaster I modded it still has more jailbar interference than my nes 2 and av famicom.  If you really want to use a toaster the one I've had the best picture from is a nes-cpu-06.  The worst ones I found were nes-cpu-10 and nes-cpu-11.  Here's my nes-cpu-06 toaster

http://nintendoage.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=22&th...

The best rgb amp and everything else is this:

http://homepage3.nifty.com/F-LABO/ProductsList.html

This kit pcb is specifically designed for adding rgb and s-video to an av famicom.  It's also specifically designed for upgrading the audio in the system.  This kit will work in any model of the nes / famicom.

Before I used this kit I built 4-5 different types of rgb amps I found on the internet.  Unfortunately getting the picture to look good requires a lot more than just building the "best rgb booster".  The video signal coming out of this ppu chip needs more than just an amp.  When I built rgb amps and externally encoded the video to s-video I had all kinds of extremely annoying issues.  Most of the time the image would look great.  But when I got to a part of the game where the background was just a large solid colour of certain shades of dark blue you'd see the background refreshing and the entire screen would annoyingly flicker.  Also I noticed that even with an amp the longer the rgb cable was between the system and the s-video encoder the more blurry the s-video image would become.  The above kit fixed all these problems.  Also the kit really improves the audio quality in the system.  I only found 3 games that don't sound proper with the audio upgrade so I built a switch that switches the system between this upgraded audio circuit and the original audio connections.

Installing one of these kits into a toaster is a royal pain.  I actually flipped my pcb over so it's facing upside down from the factory position.  I built an adapter that lets me move over the ppu socket so everything fits nicely.  And when you flip the pcb over you can't use the original cartridge slot.  Also you need to add holes in the case for the power jack and rca connectors.  This was the only way I could get this kit to fit inside of a toaster.

As much as I agree that marvelus can be a jackhole sometimes, I'm going to side with marvelus on this argument.  You chose to take his advice.  It's your fault....not his.

I give the advice all the time to use a powerpak as repro wiring can be really frustrating.  And nobody takes my advice.  So I don't feel a lot of sympathy for people like yourself.  If you can't stand the heat then stay out of the kitchen!  Building repros is a royal pain and it's expensive too that's why I eventually said "screw this" and bought powerpaks.  The only carts I repro now are carts that powerpaks don't support properly or don't support at all.

Your actions and your mistakes are your fault so stop acting like a spoiled brat.

I've found plenty of mod guides on the internet that are either completely or partially wrong and I fixed a bunch of them.  But I don't go around whining that it's their fault if my mod doesn't work out right away.

Even my first repro I must have desoldered and re-soldered eproms to that thing like 5-6 times before I said "forget this" and just soldered a precision socket to the pcb.  I broke some traces and just wired them back up.  I'm surprised you had an easy time desoldering the maskrom at first but then had trouble after that.  Maybe you just don't know how to desolder properly.  It actually took me a long while before I learned how to desolder things properly.

The smart way to go about making repros for pcb types that you'd never done before is to make a "dev pcb" with precision sockets soldered into where the maskroms were.  Then you can stick an eprom into the socket and do the wiring any way you like.  And if it's not working then just pull it out because it's sitting in a socket.  It's not marvelus or anyone elses fault that you have no foresight and that you don't know how to properly desolder and fix things.  Honestly if you just looked up pinouts of that maskrom type and compared it to eprom pinouts then you could have figured this out on your own.  Then we wouldn't have to listen to your whining.

Thing is, I can take the heat. I've done quite a bit of solder work over the years. In fact, the repro was going VERY well. The mask ROM was cleanly desoldered, no torn solder rings. Even the EPROM was put in the right way. Just crummy instructions are why it wasn't working. I'm upset because it felt like a waste that didn't need to happen. Not out of lack of soldering experience for sure. (it's just the EPROM was soldered in a little TOO well) I even still have the mask ROM I could show you all.

I've got a pile of repros I plan to do and with some determination and some good instructions, they will all work. No, I'm not doing anything like TNROM or those other high end board types. I'm doing SL, UN, CN, TL, SN and SG.

Here you go again whining about bad instructions.  Like I said before if you just sat down and compared the pinout of this type of maskrom to an eprom pinout you could figure out the wiring yourself and wouldn't need the instructions.  Stop blaming others when your mods don't work out please.

True you could just compare the pinouts, I wouldn't trust instructions either, always double check by your self. But if you cut traces that's fixable and the board could be easily salvaged.

And also, I find it that if you need to mod a system to consider it better and don't fix it's flaws you're complaining about, you're doing it 100% right either and are guilty of the same accusation. Still not rerouting the PPU video output pins away from other components that cause the jailbars is a flaw that you seem to ignore and complain about each console yourself but don't fix it. Why not? I've told you time and time again reroute them from the data pins and it'd be fine but I've yet to see you take that information and improve your mods. I don't understand you put all kits into one single PCB that has everything fixed and also has all of your mods into it. I'm sure you're capable of doing such things hopefully.

When did the Brewery degenerate into so much finger-pointing and complaining?

technical stuff tends to attract people who think they are right. (Myself included sometimes...I'll admit that much)
The only thing that "bothers" me about drakon is that afaik he buys the pcbs for the mod and stil calls it "his" mod...(If he did make the pcb himself thats great and I take that back) Other then that I don't have any real outstanding issues atm.

Look, I'll stop going on about that dead repro and I'll stop provoking Marvelus. I greatly appreciate all the help I received, at least the board in question was relatively worthless (California Games). The shell has a very nice new label on it, all it needs is a new board. Heck, maybe I'll try out one of bunnyboy's repro boards.

I was trying to provoke a little innocent badgering, sorry this got into a pissing match.

I just found the first argument hilarious.

"So the mod I made (ie my mod) I did so and so.."

Then two people jump in

"What!??! That isn't your mod! You can't own it!!!"

Lol.. what the hell?

I think there was a failure of common sense here. As if Drakon would actually be trying to claim an entire concept.




Anyway, on another note, anyone want to see my pillows that I sew? I do great work... 

uhm.  My ppus have the video output pins going away from the other components.  In fact all the pins that aren't rgb out go directly into the original pcb.  The rgb pins go completely the opposite direction and away from all the pcb components.  That's not the source of any jailbars.  I wish you'd stop pretending like you know what you're talking about.