NintendoAge

NintendoAge http://nintendoage.com/forum/ -Sqooner Audio mod for PowerPak/RetroVision http://nintendoage.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=22&threadid=32915 2015-10-18T23:31:48 -05.00 bunnyboy 26 Originally posted by: N the Bit Gamer

I'm going to necropost again; after I mod expansion ports 3 and 9, what do I have to do on my 60-pin converter?

Originally posted by: JxMx

N the Bit Gamer .. check out the attachment, that what you are looking for ?

Thanks, I needed this...

]]> Audio mod for PowerPak/RetroVision http://nintendoage.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=22&threadid=32915 2015-10-18T22:42:30 -05.00 bunnyboy 26 Audio mod for PowerPak/RetroVision http://nintendoage.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=22&threadid=32915 2015-10-18T12:54:54 -05.00 bunnyboy 26 Audio mod for PowerPak/RetroVision http://nintendoage.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=22&threadid=32915 2015-10-18T11:52:02 -05.00 bunnyboy 26 Audio mod for PowerPak/RetroVision http://nintendoage.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=22&threadid=32915 2015-01-02T19:06:51 -05.00 bunnyboy 26 Originally posted by: arch_8ngel

Since we're in a thread involving opening up and modding a front-loader, I have a question...

So I swapped my ZIF connector a couple months back, but couldn't get the damn RF shield back into the system (at least, I'm assuming the big-ass hunk of metal covering everything was an RF shield).

Now, I don't use the RF generated signal, and have the RCA plugs hooked up to an adjacent CRT.

Do I face any unforeseen issues from NOT having an RF shield installed if I'm not using the RF signal?

Am I bombarding myself with some undesirable quantity of radio waves at a known hazardous intensity/frequency? Dude, didn't you hear? The NES is plutonium powered and if you remove the heavy lead shielding, you'll expose your self to lethal doses of radiation. Did you plug it in without the shield? You'll probably get radiation sickness and die. Did you play it for more than an hour? I'll give you a month tops...

LOL!

Yes your NES will run just fine without the shields although it may void your FCC license to operate it, like that matters anymore. You may have slightly more A/V noise and your system might be suseptible to EMP damage if a "nukular" warhead detonates nearby. But if an atom bomb went off in my backyard, I'd have more important things to worry about than if my game consoles survived. ]]> Audio mod for PowerPak/RetroVision http://nintendoage.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=22&threadid=32915 2015-01-02T12:11:50 -05.00 bunnyboy 26 Originally posted by: suicidalparrot
Since you're playing a reproduction and not on a powerpak , you may need to add another jumper wire to some other pins. I ran into the same issue when I got Akumajo Densetsu (Castlevania III) on the famicom. There's a solution to it here. I'm not 100% sure That's your issue but it's worth a shot

interesting that this thread came up again ... I did millerjm2's mod for the retro-bit RES nes clone system, and CV3 came out odd... i got the expanded audio, however now all the 'sound effect' are extremely muted .. must have something to do with the resistors i added ... i put two resistors inline to approximate 1.5 ohms (or whatever it was that was required) ... I wonder if something like the thread you linked would fix that as well.. very cool

]]> Audio mod for PowerPak/RetroVision http://nintendoage.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=22&threadid=32915 2015-01-02T10:00:57 -05.00 bunnyboy 26 Originally posted by: NESHomebrew

I wouldn't worry about it. I have noticed that if you use RF then it will make a difference in the quality of output, but I've seen no ill effect to composite output.

Thanks.

I was more concerned about if anybody knew of the emission intensity and frequency to be potentially hazardous, but doing some cursory searches it looks like the 400-600 MHz range is used for Analog TV signals, and I suspect this system outputs on the lower end of that range since it only generates Channel 3 or Channel 4.

Just didn't want to be bombarding myself with unshielded microwave radiation or something crazy like that ]]> Audio mod for PowerPak/RetroVision http://nintendoage.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=22&threadid=32915 2015-01-02T09:58:34 -05.00 bunnyboy 26 Originally posted by: arch_8ngel

Since we're in a thread involving opening up and modding a front-loader, I have a question...

So I swapped my ZIF connector a couple months back, but couldn't get the damn RF shield back into the system (at least, I'm assuming the big-ass hunk of metal covering everything was an RF shield).

Now, I don't use the RF generated signal, and have the RCA plugs hooked up to an adjacent CRT.

Do I face any unforeseen issues from NOT having an RF shield installed if I'm not using the RF signal?

Am I bombarding myself with some undesirable quantity of radio waves at a known hazardous intensity/frequency?
I wouldn't worry about it. I have noticed that if you use RF then it will make a difference in the quality of output, but I've seen no ill effect to composite output.

]]> Audio mod for PowerPak/RetroVision http://nintendoage.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=22&threadid=32915 2015-01-02T09:31:42 -05.00 bunnyboy 26
So I swapped my ZIF connector a couple months back, but couldn't get the damn RF shield back into the system (at least, I'm assuming the big-ass hunk of metal covering everything was an RF shield).

Now, I don't use the RF generated signal, and have the RCA plugs hooked up to an adjacent CRT.

Do I face any unforeseen issues from NOT having an RF shield installed if I'm not using the RF signal?

Am I bombarding myself with some undesirable quantity of radio waves at a known hazardous intensity/frequency? ]]> Audio mod for PowerPak/RetroVision http://nintendoage.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=22&threadid=32915 2015-01-02T03:57:59 -05.00 bunnyboy 26 Originally posted by: NESHomebrew

Originally posted by: dhennick99

Can you offer a tutorial with potentiometer installation included?

It's as simple as putting the pot between the two pins instead of the resistor. Doesn't really need a tutorial.
Sorry for the necro-bump. Placing a pot inline will work but it won't give you full control of the volume. A better way is to connect a 10k audio tapered pot set up as a voltage divider:

Pin 1 on the pot goes to ground (PIN #2 on the expansion connector). The center pin on the pot goes to the AUX audio port on the NES (PIN #3 on the expansion connector). The third pin on the pot goes to the the data pin 6 on the NES slot (PIN #9 on the expansion connector).

I installed the audio pot along with a nice big red knob on my NES, directly above the controller ports. I find that audio is balanced with the pot set at the 2/3 position (clockwise is full loudness or 100% and counter-clockwise is off or 0%). I also placed two 10uF electrolytic caps inline with the input and output pins on the pot (negative side faces the pot which is grounded) to isolate any possible DC bias and provide a hi-pass cutoff around 10Hz, although it probably isn't necessary. ]]>